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Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Abbey Normal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alaskan Arches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arctic Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aurora Borealis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bering Strait S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Nowhere S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannery Row S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney Sweeps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gifts From Attu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Juno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Ranger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Lone Wolf T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mosquito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nanook of the North S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Yeller T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yellowknife S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yukon Cornelius S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg 1993
Page Views: 1,413 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun wandering line on crimps and friction.
A little lichen covered in parts, but it doesn't take away from the climb. A few cruxes but no one stopper move.
Wicked fun and highly recommended to those who enjoy long, techy, footy, less-than-vertical climbing.
The book says you need 2 ropes to lower, but a 60m rope will just make it (tie a knot in the other end of the rope).

Location

The far right route highest up in the gully.

Protection

9 bolts to anchor at a sloping stance.

Photos

Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
 
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
 
Well bolted with great clipping stances but probably a little more spaced out than many folks are used to at Rumney. Also, the bolts on this climb are real nasty looking. Not sure I'd want to a big one on them. Sep 4, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Sure you weren't at the 5.8 crag, Nick? ;) Oct 15, 2014
S. Neoh  
Nick, sorry to hear about your epic. Did you try to approach YK from The Hinterlands? I've always gone via Prudential. Not too difficult to find from the Pru (which I in turn approach from NW Territories).
Others might have better suggestions for approaches. I tend to go with what I know (and not be too adventurous). Oct 14, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
The other day was my first time at Yellowknife Buttress, and Ian and I were searching for Cow Patty as a warm-up before heading over to the Prudential. We headed up . . . and up . . . and up the ever-steepening gully, until it became the gnarliest fourth-classing I've done at Rumney (I'd call it 4.14a). We finally backed off (I thought about rapping), and, almost back at the bottom of the gully, we saw two bolt lines to our right. There was a little platform ledge about ten feet up, and one of the routes seemed to go up from there. Is that line Cow Patty? (We're not sure if we'll ever return after that epic gully!) Oct 14, 2014
S. Neoh  
Very nice route, even to someone like me who usually dislike slabs! :) 2.5 stars from me. Quite well protected if memory serves. Aug 11, 2010