Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bradley White, Ryan Barber 10/2011
Page Views: 820 total · 8/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb up rock to lay back flake or hike higher and skip this rock start is better. The lay back to go onto a mantle (crux) is the crux and protection was a sling on horn. Cold fingers traverse left on wide ledge to the corner. Climb up corner to a tree. First belay. Skip the details. Step away far left to lichen face from tree and go up towrds some plants. At plants good pro and move up direct left side to 60ft and has a challenging run out with 5.5 moves. reach quartz section and pin move up to small depression and good gear above it at base of dirt crack. Move far right awkward then face climb directly up to to exit to grass ledge and large block on right. Gear block? move up left on lichen wall of okay holds to face climb foot ramp diagonally sloping right corner (great pro) and go out after tree up the outside edge. Do an airy step right to new surface and face climb lower angled rock to the near summit of the buttress. No pro and up the ridge is a large pine on the left 15 feet more for belay. This is a mountaineers route. Damn serious one. Long run outs. A little safer after large toaster oven size rocks were found in the most dangerous way and had to be tossed off on the lead twice. This is the area where the longest naturally climbable rock is and didn't know until after doing it. Like the climbs of the nineteen thirties it has trees. Its a mountaineers classic and a bomb. Lots of variety in climbing and textures. The first section lay back area is the coolest. Good only for 30 feet and then the rock and things arise. It can be rappelled at the birch tree and flake slung.

Location

Up right from 'Aurora Borealis'

Protection

2 bolts to the start from Gifts to Attu, 1-4 tri cams, small amount of a full stopper range in sizes, small amount of # 2 camelots or friends up to #3.5, 1 pin in quartz section. Hike off.

Photos