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Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Abbey Normal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alaskan Arches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arctic Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aurora Borealis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bering Strait S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Nowhere S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannery Row S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney Sweeps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gifts From Attu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Juno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Ranger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Lone Wolf T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mosquito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nanook of the North S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Yeller T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yellowknife S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yukon Cornelius S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 7/95
Page Views: 712 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A fun route for sure, but compared to its neighbor to the right, it's not quite as classic. But who wants to compare? Not me, but if you only have time for one hard 5.11 do Alaskan Arches (5.11d). Ok, let's sit back and look in to the route at hand.

Start up the right-leaning crack clipping 2 bolts above the crack.This part looks quite easy, and it's not too hard but harder than it looks. Move right on to a ledge clip another bolt and head up in to a really cool dihedral with good holds.Exiting the corner is the first crux involving the use of small stemming feet and an undercling. Above this is a sloping hueco-ish hold. From that hold, move up and right to another hueco (this one is a super jug). Take a rest here 'cause you will need it. The anchor is close now, but it's guarded by a vicious crimpy section. When I was onsighting, I went up right then back down to the jug.Up left and back to the jug.then chose up right though it felt hard for the grade. That way it went well. There is a good jug off to the left of the anchor to clip from.

Please post if you have any beta on the top crux section, 'cause it seemed like it could be done a few ways.

Location

The far left route on Yellow Knife.Left of Alaskan Arches (5.11d) and up the hill.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor.

Photos

Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11c
Easy and fun climb up to the crux. I started with right hand in the jug. Crossed my left hand in the pocket. Brought my feet up and went for a gaston crimp with right hand. Left foot in the hueco. Left hand in the side pull.Cross right hand in final jug. Match the jug with left hand then clip. Easy after figuring the beta. Hard to onsight. Oct 14, 2014
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
The top crux is indeed quite hard, and a proud onsight. First, I tried going up left from the hueco jug to the tiny crimp, and then up to the gaston sidepull to the right, but this spit me off. On my second try, I had the hueco in my left hand and a good pocket slightly up to the right, got my left foot high on a good edge, reached up w/ left hand to the sidepull (reachy), then got my left foot up into the hueco jug. There's a small crimp out to the right to get your feet higher, then clip the anchors.

A couple hard 11 cruxes, and generally very technical and fun and with good falls. Get on it! Sep 7, 2010