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Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Abbey Normal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alaskan Arches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arctic Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aurora Borealis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bering Strait S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Nowhere S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannery Row S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney Sweeps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gifts From Attu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Juno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Ranger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Lone Wolf T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mosquito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nanook of the North S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Yeller T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yellowknife S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yukon Cornelius S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin McShane and partner 2002
Page Views: 566 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 11, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

First, the good stuff. Great location with amazing views of the Baker River Valley and the Summit Crag. Nice fun moderate climbing. Good protection for the most part.

But then there is the bad part, dirty, loose and vegitated pretty much wraps it up. just getting to the climb is a jungle adventure. With a good cleaning it would be more like 2 stars from me. I really only bombed it for the average climber, personally i enjoyed the climb as did my partner Kevin.

To find the route should you choose to accept this mission, hike up and left from the front of yellow knife and find a flat spot to belay below the arete that forms the left edge of the cliff. You will be looking up the gully at Summit Crag.
Wade through plants that are as tall as you and find the moves that help you gain the arete. Climb cracks and face holds up and over some bulges and run up 4th class sections. There is one cracked bulge the i felt was the crux maybe 80 feet up. The upper section is pretty open to interpretation but belay where you like (i did it in one 200ft pitch). at about 150 feet i went through a chimney with 2 evergreen trees in it and finished the climb on the other side of the buttress. This finish puts you about 20ft right of the route Bridge to Nowhere (5.9). climb up a face and follow the ridge to a good belay ledge.

Location

This adventure follows the left edge of the cliff to the top.
From the last anchor described you can traverse right about 10ft to a 2 bolt anchor. 2 Raps get you down from here.

Protection

Regular rack. 60m rope.

Photos

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