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Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Abbey Normal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alaskan Arches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arctic Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aurora Borealis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bering Strait S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Nowhere S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannery Row S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney Sweeps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gifts From Attu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Juno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Ranger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Lone Wolf T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mosquito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nanook of the North S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Yeller T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yellowknife S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yukon Cornelius S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 10/25
Page Views: 643 total, 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Now the farthest bolt line right at Yellow Knife. Not your average Yellow Knife route, a bit steeper and most of the holds are pretty big.

I recommend the belayer anchors to the tree off to the right. I removed all the loose stuff I could find but if something came off you'd want to be out of the way.

From the ledge you can climb to the left of the 1st bolt (stick clip it for safety) on small crimps with great sequence. Or to the right on an easier crack layback. Either way you get to a nice stance on a ledge. Move left to the arete and up (a hollow flake seems to be holding but be gentle). Continue to an undercling move that gains the final pumpy face. Mostly good holds with a crimp or two thrown in for spice.

The name is a reference to a small island that is the western most point in Alaska. Hardcore bird watchers go there in hopes of seeing some Russian birds on US soil. Birding is almost as crazy as climbing, haha.

Location

Up and right from Cow Patty (5.10a) there is a small but comfortable ledge with a few small trees on it. Scamper up the gully to this ledge and walk left on it to it's end. Climb up and left following bolts.

Protection

6 bolts to Anchors
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
photos of Jeff and Torie's excellent adventure coming soon ;) Mar 12, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.11a
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.11a
I climbed this yesterday and really enjoyed this route. Anchoring on the ledge at the tree to climber's right (or throwing a cam into the crack) is a good idea.

SPOILER
I like taking the easiest way up so I followed the flakes up past the first bolt and mantled onto the ledge. The next section took a few minutes for me to figure out but it's great because you're standing, no hands on a ledge with a bolt at your side. I ended up using a jug on the arete to clip the 3rd bolt before coming back to the ledge. With renewed confidence I stemmed my way up the corner to a good stance. Don't get sucked up to far! Left of the next bolt is a bomber jug but it's out of vision. Slabby feet lead to an obvious undercling below the bulge. This is where the pump hit me. Standing up on the undercling gave break to some crimps above the edge. There is a bolt on the bulge that I clipped just prior to falling. I channeled my inner T.Swift, shook it off, and crimped my way onto the bulge rewarded by better holds to clip the anchors.
/SPOILER

This route is another great addition to Yellowknife and was completely dry during our warm winter outing. This route can be broken down into distinct sections so it feels fairly short. I'm trying to think of a route that's comparable in style but I'm drawing a blank. The crimps were good and in the range of maybe Arm and Hammer, Supreme Onion Sacrifice, Mr Coffee, or F'ing the Dog Mar 11, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I have now climbed it three times and today I watched two friends who are very solid on 5.10s climb it (both one hung it)... I have decided on an upgrade to low end 5.11... I'm a lot of things but I try not to be a sand bagger... My least favorite thing about developing routes is having to slap a grade on them so please chime in if you climb this or any other route that is new and hasn't reached a solid consensus grade Mar 10, 2015
Didn't get to finish it (took about twenty minutes for me to stand up and then suffer through the longgg hike out)...next time I'm out there I will. Looked like a cool line! Oct 25, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
arrrgg that sucks :/ i tried to get most of the crumbles off of there... did you do the rest of the route? the rock gets way better after that...
glad you got on it but bummed about your sore heel... Oct 24, 2013
Word of caution. Make sure your feet are solid at the start. I had a toe crumble away and took an unexpected fall smacking the ledge. Now I have a very sore heel... Oct 24, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
glad you got on it! thanks for the feed back... sorry if a missed some loose rocks... the big flake i had deemed safe, ill have to check it again... the upper stuff i must not have seen... the holds i use are all secure... Apr 18, 2012
mrc
mrc  
I really enjoyed this Lee. Without any chalk marks I blew the on sight by not finding the good hold above the last bolt before the anchors, but it should be an ok red point.

One word of caution, there was some pretty sizable loose rock on this. The large flake you mentioned at the start is still there and wobbling triumphantly, but 1/2 way up on the right above the ledge there are two flakes that could easily come off. Apr 18, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I went back and climbed this again and found it to be more fun than I had remembered. A worth while climb if a bit out of the way. Mar 9, 2012