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Routes in The Balcony

After All This Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Always S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sight Unseen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 852 ft
GPS: 43.803, -71.835 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

Second pitch terrain of Orange Crush, specifically above the upper anchor ledge of Black Mamba. It is easy to approach independently from the rest of Orange Crush so I figured it should get a separate area. You could do these routes as second pitches after doing Black Mamba but I don't think many will do it that way.

Climbs from 50-80ft in length on interesting rock with some of the best views and exposure you can get at Rumney for the moderate grades.

Important logistics!
-The Climbs start a few steps away from about a 100ft drop. Take care and use anchors where prudent.
-This is not a crag for dogs or kids, a bad step could be their last.
-The area directly below this is very popular. Take great care to avoid dropping anything on climbers and/or by standers below.
-Tread as lightly as possible at the base of these climbs. Erosion will rain debris down on people below.

Getting There

Hike up the trail as if you are going to Pulse wall and just as you get to pulse there is a path leading to the left and out to the edge of Orange Crush. You will know you have arrived when you see the rope I have run between some trees to help people stay in the safe zone. There is a loop close to the edge of the cliff for anchoring.

3 Total Climbs

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
went up today and there's a nice rope to help avoid that 100 foot fall to the ground near the belays...also brushed away the extremelyyy slippery leaves that were on the trail...much better now. definitely dont want to slip on leaves up there Nov 9, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
It's super easy, Eli. No danger until you actually get to the cliff. Head up to Pulse and then right around "Tool Time" look to your left for an obvious clearing in the trees and walk down the path. Sep 14, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Is the approach treacherous at all? Any death potential? Have you marked the trail or is it easy to find? Sep 14, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Only called the pulse wall so that the organization will make sense in the next edition of the guide book... It is attached to orange crush but approached via Pulse wall but doesn't have enough routes to be called it's own crag. I think "The Balcony" will be the way it is spoken of. Sep 13, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Calling this Pulse Wall is definitely super confusing, but awesome that you found it! The Balcony is definitely a good name if that is what it feels like up there, I'll have to check it out soon! Thanks Lee! Sep 13, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I got on Sight Unseen today. Fun climb, should clean up better as more people head up there. I would have got on the other two climbs but I really didn't feel comfortable as there was a large party on Black Mamba.

It's definitely a cool spot. Also, thanks for putting up that rope Lee as it really helped ease my partner's fall to your doom anxiety ;) Sep 12, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Ah, gotcha. Makes more sense. If you are not being cautious you could cause a lot of trouble up
There for sure. Thank you for letting us all know. Sep 7, 2015
jay davis
New Hampshire
jay davis   New Hampshire
I was on the ledge near Orange Crush (the climb) when it happened, so I'm not entirely sure where the rock came from or how it got loose - it may have been something that was kicked over the edge or sent flying by a pulled rope.

It looks like a lot of work was put into cleaning these routes, and I really look forward to giving them a try soon. I just wanted to make it clear that you can't let your guard down if you choose to climb there - you have to be very aware of the situation below you at all times. Sep 6, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Scary... Where did the block come off of... I took a pry bar to everything i could last time I was up there...
we have been running laps on the routes specifically looking for loose stuff with nothing but tiny chips breaking loose, even before i brought the crowbar up...
Anyway, Of course safety is my first concern so thanks for the heads up... Sep 6, 2015
jay davis
New Hampshire
jay davis   New Hampshire
It was mentioned it the description, but I'd like to reiterate how important it is to be extremely careful while hanging out in this area, especially on a busy day. In addition to lots of little stuff, there was at least one very serious block dislodged today that landed in the vicinity of the Black Mamba belay area. I'd strongly recommend climbing elsewhere if there's any sort of crowd near the lower routes of Orange Crush. Sep 5, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
"Orange Crush Balcony" sounds good and gets the point across.
tell me how it goes out there... I really like it :) Sep 2, 2015
S. Neoh  
Incidentally I also heard someone refer to the OrangaHang area as "Upper Orange Crush" last night which led to some confusion in my mind for a few minutes.
I like "Orange Crush Balcony"; it imparts the imagery of an "airy" place. Sep 2, 2015
Looks great Lee, will check these routes out this weekend!

Just a suggestion on the name, many refer to the area around Orangahang as "Upper Orange Crush," so maybe "Above Orange Crush" or "Orange Crush Balcony.."

Just my two zinc pennies.... Sep 2, 2015

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