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Routes in The Balcony

After All This Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Always S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sight Unseen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 268 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Another little gem perched up here above the masses. Interesting challenging bits separated by good rest stances. Climb a strenuous start trough some interesting quartz holds with a comfortable stance for clipping the second bolt. The next section is my favorite part of the route, an interesting delicate mantle past the 3rd bolt on to a slab and another stance. One more briefly perplexing bulge leads to an easy slab reminiscent of Bolt Line down at the meadows that will bring you another 25 feet to the anchor.

Location

Currently the middle route. Look for the quartz holds and a low bolt a few feet right of the anchor for Black Mambs.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. If you have a stick clip, Clip the second from the ground but it can be reached safely without... just gotta think it out.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
right on... I do similar but I start on 2 nice crimps inches apart that are a little hidden just left of the arête... I smear my right foot about 10 inches off the ground... left foot smear/edge where you described... I hit that quartz mound with right then left hand... left foot on the arête, right foot on a decent small lump on the smooth wall just right of the arête... I then reach out wide right in to the other corner for a good solid hold... foot on far right wall... left foot up to perch on good quartz hold... one more wide right foot and a hand out on a spike to gain a no hands rest before balancing up the quartz to the overlap which I see as the crux of the route...
Cheers :) Nov 4, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Now, I haven't climbed Sidewalk Surfing or Static Cling, but the way I did the start felt super tenuous. I faced the right angle corner on the left, put my left foot high in the inside of the open book, and smeared & scrabbled with my right foot on the sheer wall to the right of the corner. I used the good left hand sidepull, then reached way up with my right to the quartzite bulbous mound. I matched on that and hauled myself up. Nov 2, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I have really good beta for the start... the whole thing feels... fun... Wish I knew how you all were doing it... I'm a curious guy... glad you enjoyed it Ladd, I know you know rumney 5.10s ;) Nov 1, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Very hard start. Climbing the quartz is really weird——there are no comfortable holds. Until you hit the slab, the thing feels touch-and-go the whole time. Nov 1, 2015
Ladd

  5.10b
Ladd    
  5.10b
Great line, made better after the first move is out of the way. Nov 1, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Ok, done :) added another bolt down low and even found a way to clip it comfortably... Enjoy! Sep 8, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just can't imagine where I'd stop to clip another one. But I suppose I will have to add a bolt. That part used to be inconsequential before I pried all the good holds off :( so sad to see them go. Glad it still climbs well however :) Sep 7, 2015
ward smith
  5.10c
ward smith  
  5.10c
Maybe should add a bolt since many will not stick-cip the second, and a ledge fall is assured. Sep 7, 2015