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Routes in The Balcony

After All This Time S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Always S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sight Unseen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Hansche and Torie Kidd
Page Views: 2,339 total, 84/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This amazingly exposed route has been on my mind for years. I could see through the thick blanket of lichen and knew there was something special to be climbed. I would look at it after topping out Black Mamba, or walk over from Pulse to gaze at it. One day I suggested to My friend that we get adventurous and we went after it in ground up trad style. I love wading through filth wondering what is around the next corner and where I might get my next piece of pro... I also know that most people don't so we went back scrubbed the heck out of it removed suspect rocks and gave you some solid bolts. The result is honestly one of my favorite moderate climbs at Rumney.

The first step is the hardest, not physically but mentally. Step across the 100ft void to a very stable stance and clip a bolt. Do about 10 feet of 5.7 climbing until the difficulty eases up a little and wind your way to the left and finally traverse back to the right to gain the anchor.

Be respectful of climbers coming up Black Mamba, I suggest clipping that anchor for the step across the void to start the route but Anchor yourself to the tree and maybe unclip that first bolt if someone needs to use that anchor and your climber is well established on this climb.

Location

The farthest left route. Look for the scary first step, can't miss it.

Protection

Anchor to the tree.
Clip the anchor to black mamba for the first move.
6 bolts to Anchors from there.
5th bolt likes a longer draw to avoid drag.
when your face is at the 6th bolt travers right to the anchor on good foot holds. The anchor had to be over there so you could lower back to safety instead of off in to the nothingness below.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I have replaced the fifth bolt that I had mentioned before so it's all in good shape now enjoy Oct 9, 2016
dazzling views await all those who venture to this route. none of the pics quite give it justice the scenery is splendid indeed. Nov 9, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Appropriately, Ian and I did this one at dusk on Halloween. Wicked creepy! Yikes! Nov 1, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.7
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.7
Easily the best 5.7 I've done in Rumney. This route will likely draw crowds. Sep 28, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
My twelve year old, Sydney, and I climbed this route and loved it. The initial step out onto the climb was memorable and while a little intimidating, is not actually difficult. I found the first few bolts to be the most thought provoking and really enjoyed heading up the top. The anchors lower right back to where you started - nice! Fun addition Sep 6, 2015