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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: tom bowker 1990, direct finish glen cilley 1994
Page Views: 18,476 total · 140/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.

To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route. At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness. Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast. After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.
Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition.

The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10.

Location

Middle of the cliff, up slabs and a steep roofish section at the top. Right of Cereal Killer (5.11c).

Protection

10 bolts to anchor.
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Link it into clusterphobia for extra fun. Dec 30, 2016
Graham O.  
 
Epic climb! Great variety Jul 10, 2016
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
A great line, much deserving of hype, but clusterphobia is even better in my opinion. Get on them both! Jun 27, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
One of the classic 5.10's at Rumney. It's a great line, and, from the ground, the big roof at the top (a jug-hauling pumpathon) looks impressive to the 5.10 climber, but surmounting the bulge about a third of the way up is the technical crux. Aug 1, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
There are bolted anchors over on that ledge now to replace the slings on the tree. If you head over there you can then continue up on Crime and Punishment for a second pitch Jun 14, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
Does anyone still do the original finish to this route?
At the top of the slab, go left. Reach the huge flake, continue left. Plug a #2 or #3 Camalot in at some point and finish up left still to a grassy ledge with a large tree on it. There used to be slings and rap rings on this tree.
For added spice down low, skip the bolt just below the crux pod. That bolt is relatively new. We used to plug a cam into the flaring pod (yes, where you want your hand to be!) instead and go for it after taking a deep breath. I think a 0.5 or 0.4 Camalot is the cam for the pod. Be careful and double check this placement if you choose to go slightly spicy. Apr 8, 2011
Tim Wolsonovich
Boston
  5.10b
Tim Wolsonovich   Boston
  5.10b
Great fun. Love the jug haul section after the slabby part is over. Wish that horizontal was small enough for a fist jam, but maybe I just couldn't find it... Sep 19, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
got on this for the first time today it was excellent definatly one of my favorites Mar 20, 2009
Victor McConnell
Golden, CO
Victor McConnell   Golden, CO
For a little adventure, continue climbing past the top of Armed and Dangerous. A variety of paths can be taken, 5.7-5.8, for another pitch. Walk-off to the left. Sep 19, 2007
Ladd

  5.10b
Ladd    
  5.10b
If you are with someone that will be toproping the climb several times you should climb up and right to anchors of clusterphobia, it is a straighter line so the pendulum won't be so bad if they fall. Also remember to put in some directionals on the overhanging section, so they can get back on. May 3, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Clusterphobia is very fun for sure.... I had heard 5.10d, but I wouldn't argue with either grade.... Mar 24, 2007
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10b
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10b
Hands down, one of the best 10s at Rumney. As a side note, the new route to the right of Armed and Dangerous, though not official yet, has been named "Clusterphobia" and is 11a. Mar 24, 2007