Type: Sport
FA: tom bowker 1990, direct finish glen cilley 1994
Page Views: 23,563 total · 146/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.

To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route. At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness. Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast. After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.
Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition.

The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10.

Location

Middle of the cliff, up slabs and a steep roofish section at the top. Right of Cereal Killer (5.11c).

Protection

10 bolts to anchor.

Photos