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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 813 ft
GPS: 43.803, -71.836 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 41,864 total, 335/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. The routes of most concern in connection to this rockfall would be Magic helmet and charity case.

Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.


Main Cliff Right is a small off shoot of main cliff that holds a good variety of climbing from 5.12 sport routes like Flawless Victory (5.12d) to moderate multipitch trad like White Toad (5.7). And a bunch of stuff in between.

Also once established on the upper ledge there are many more routes available. You can gain this ledge via Charity Case (5.9) or a moderate trad route to the right of that. Or even scrambling/traversing easily from the Main Cliff main area. From the ledge you can get to Wendell's Route (airy 5.6 trad) or a couple of super exposed 5.11s.

Getting There

Follow signs from the small parking lot toward Main Cliff. Soon after stepping over a log across the trail with steps cut in to it look to your right for the harder steep climbs and a little further along for the more moderate trad routes starting in a corner.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff Right

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Model Citizen
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crowd Pleaser
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Toad
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Toad
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tipping Point
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Case
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tour De Toad
Sport 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freebird
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stained Glass Ceiling
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
High Roller
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Get a Grip
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get It On
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Model Citizen 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Crowd Pleaser 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
White Toad 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Dead Toad 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tipping Point 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Crack Addict 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Charity Case 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Charity Toad 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Tour De Toad 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Stairway to Heaven 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Freebird 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Stained Glass Ceiling 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
High Roller 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Get a Grip 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Get It On 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Cliff Right »

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Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
Lots of wasps around the 2nd pitches of Stairway to Heaven, Rock de jours, High Roller, Glass Ceiling, ect... maybe cause it hasn't got hold yet they're still really active/expanding their colonies?

Climbed through them twice, haven't been bothered yet, but I was worried taking a lead fall into a plant with some of em might be taken by the wasps as an aggressive action. FYI. Sep 25, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
For those that want to do some of the second pitches: There are several possible 4th class approaches to the charity case ledge to access some of the routes above. Follow ramps up to the left of charity case, or scramble up the 4th class section of Rock Du Jours from the center of main cliff. This is really only useful if you're trying to save a small bit of time, or don't want to climb charity case again. Feb 29, 2016
bradley white   Bend
Thanks to everyone recently making new routes here Sep 26, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks Matt. I wish more would add well done entries like that, and also use the "improve this page" button. Some other crags, like Woodchuck off the Kanc, could really use some help. May 22, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I have gone ahead and posted Tipping Point and Crowd Pleaser. I hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes by going ahead and doing this, I just have climbed them recently and knew that they needed to be posted. Mountain Project has been an invaluable resource to me as I have grown as a climber and fell in love with the climbing at Rumney. I am more than happy to be able to give back, if just in a small way. May 22, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
When you post a description I'll post photos of them. ;) I'm still not sure which is Friendship Tower and Toady Dreams either. All 3 of them looked pretty appealing. May 19, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Tipping Point was very enjoyable. Thanks, Chris.

Haven't had the chance to do Crowd Pleaser yet... May 18, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The 5.7 is Dave Quinn's 'Crowd Pleaser'. The 5.8 is Chris Smith's 'Tipping Point'. Post 'em up. I haven't climbed them yet. May 18, 2015
Jay LeSage
Sandown, NH
Jay LeSage   Sandown, NH
Does anyone know the names of/going to add the new 2 pitch routes? Ones 5.7 to the right of white toad and one is 5.8 on the around the right of the cave. I did them this last weekend. Theyre great and want to tick them off. May 18, 2015
S. Neoh  
This pic shows this "P2" well mountainproject.com/v/10639… . It is rther short. Aug 22, 2013
Okay thanks! Is this pitch two of charity-toad an established route or more of a linkup? And is it more or less runout than the vegetated gully on the right end of iron man that takes you to the ledge? Aug 22, 2013
S. Neoh  
I've taken a look at the said short pitch and it looks quite chill. We were up there to do High Roller and Stairway to Heaven and could see most of this "P2" of Charity Toad. Smitty had a good suggestion of linking Charity Case with this "P2" to the belay anchors for P3 of Charity Toad. Sounds rather pleasant. Aug 19, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The second pitch of Charity Toad is technically "runout", but it is basically traversing across ledges and buckets. It shouldn't be any problem unless your second was inexperienced with being up 100 feet so they were completely wigged out, in which case they wouldn't be having fun on the 3rd pitch either. You would have to be practically unconscious to fall off there. Bring runners and you can use various bolts on the way across, like the first one of High Roller Aug 19, 2013
Is there any way to get to the third pitch of White Toad from the big ledge below Freebird without climbing any big runouts or trad routes? Aug 19, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
sure matt... im surprized i hadnt done that yet.... its a fun climb... Nov 20, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Awesome I will investigate both more in-depth! Lee would you want to add 'Cherry Pie' by any chance? Nov 19, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yeah, ive done cherry pie but havent done the prow... ill have to remember to do that :) cherry pie is worth doing for sure! Nov 18, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I was surprised that Ward left Cherry Pie out of the new book. It runs out a pretty obvious and cool feature, the giant undercling flake that links in to Rock du Jour mid way through the second pitch. It looked like it would take a bunch of fairly large cams. The new belay anchor and starting bolts of Stairway to Heaven would facilitate leading it now. Being an old route that has lain fallow, it probably needs a good cleaning, but is worth it.

The Prow area has been fairly run over with new routes, but it is worth doing for a change by those who like to plug gear and have an adventure. Nov 18, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
In the Old Rumney guide book there are two Routes listed that did not make it into the new guide. I was wondering if people had any insight into either of them.

The First one being 'Cherry Pie' listed as a 5.8, it is described as a link-up of 'Wendell's' and 'Rock Du Jours' using a corner crack system.

The second on being 'The Prow' listed as 5.9 it says climb the hand crack on 'Free Bird' then traverse into the top of 'White Toad'. Nov 18, 2011

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