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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T.Kemple, J.Mendell, E.Hirsch
Page Views: 2,215 total · 53/month
Shared By: kemple sr. on Jun 22, 2015 with updates from Peter Sullivan
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Begin with 15 feet of laybacking on good feet. After the initial bulge a few thought provoking slab moves will get you to easier ground and the anchors.

Location

Far right end of Main Cliff. A few feet right of Tipping Point, at obvious inside corner. This corner is often wet, but if it isn't soaked, there is so much texture inside the crack that it is easily climbable.

Protection

9 bolts. The clips are right where you want them

Photos

Lavery  
As of yesterday (6/27) this seems to still be red-tagged? Jun 28, 2015
kemple sr.
  5.8
kemple sr.  
  5.8
Have at it. Rains came and we didn't have a chance to take off tag or remove rope. All clear now, if it ever dries out! Jul 3, 2015
Lavery  
Thanks for clarifying, and for taking the time to put this up! Jul 5, 2015
Ming
  5.7+
Ming  
  5.7+
I think once it dries up and cleans up it is more of a 5.7 layback. The feet are really, really good. Jul 6, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.7
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.7
Good route for a new leader. Sep 16, 2015
S. Neoh
5.8
S. Neoh  
5.8
Nice addition. Solid 1.5 stars. More thoughtful than I expected. Sep 27, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Basically a retro of Runout, with the alternative start of the corner which has some of the nicest and cleanest cut crack at Rumney. It seems to me the arete just right of the corner (the actual start of Runout) should have been bolted and the corner left trad. The bolts were not well installed, with the holes off kilter and the Fixe glue-ins not countersunk properly or angled slightly down as they should be (the welds should be on the upper side, inset into the countersink and completely encased by the glue) There are also obvious air pockets in the glue. Besides all that, the climbing is very nice and provides some great views. Tim, take a look at Video #6 fixehardware.com/shop/fixe-… Oct 13, 2015
kemple sr.
  5.8
kemple sr.  
  5.8
Mark, sometimes your opinions do not take into account the realities of climbing at Rumney. I could have cleaned off the two inches of moss on the outside of the arete and had another nondescript slab climb, or addressed the incredible crack which was begging to be climbed but buried in dirt.

I could have just cleaned the crack and left it trad, but since the is almost no gear on the second half of the pitch, it would not be climbed, and thus full of dirt again next year. As it is now, it is being climbed and enjoyed by many.

As for the glue ins, they are well placed to protect the layback. I intentionally did not recess them. You know what it is like to service a recessed bolt versus a flush one. The errant bolt on Armed was a nightmare, the loose bolt on Holderness arete was a ten minute job. I think the glue ins will be solid even in that wet environment for a long time. Nov 2, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think I am pretty aware of the realities of climbing at Rumney, Tim. I just have a different take on balancing practical management of climbers while still trying to maintain some aesthetics and route craftsmanship. Rumney is having a resurgence of interest in trad climbing, so I think when there is a high quality crack with excellent gear possibilities along with the option to bolt a nearby sport route that allows for easily TRing the crack, the crack should be preserved. For those with no gear it would be easy enough to run up the easy arete a few bolts and lower to TR the crack portion and then continue on.

If you don't want to countersink the glue-ins as the Fixe distributor suggests, the Wave bolts would be a better choice, or even better the 8mm Rod Twisted Leg glue-ins from Boltproducts, as they don't require it and have no weld that would be exposed. Nov 2, 2015
Nat Hookway
Brooklyn, NY
 
Nat Hookway   Brooklyn, NY
 
Climbed this today. Noticed when cleaning top anchors that the right bolt of top anchors was loose. I finger tightened it but I suggest someone who knows more about this stuff perhaps check it out to ensure that it's all good. Meanwhile anyone else who climbs it in the meantime should be extra mindful of this.

There is a thoughtful belay anchor bolt also provided. Use it as one false move will have you down the hill at the demise of both you and your climber.
Ps awesome climb! What a treat to climb a crack on sport. Thanks for putting this route up!
Must do at Rumney for those climbing this grade (like me). 3 stars for me. Aug 14, 2017
kemple sr.
  5.8
kemple sr.  
  5.8
Glad you liked it. And thanks for the heads up on the anchor bolt. I think the opening moves are pretty cool. I tightened the nut on the bolt. I may add a lock nut as the counterclockwise pull on the hanger when lowering tends to loosen these things over time. Aug 17, 2017

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