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Routes in Main Cliff Right
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Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Pie* T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Toad* S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Freebird* T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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High Roller* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Losing Eleven* S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Magic Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Helmet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Resurrection Stone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stained Glass Ceiling* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stairway to Heaven* S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Smith 5/16 |
| Page Views: | 5,888 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Alessandro Pruscino on May 18, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Upper pitches of Main Cliff and Main Cliff Right were closed 5/2/25 for peregrine nesting (Summit is back open)! Signs were posted but may not be obvious.
Details
Description
This is a 2 pitch sport line. I would say that the climbing is not technical but there are some exposed moves. Tons of jugs, you just have to find them...
P1 is the scarier pitch, definitely heady. Belay ledge is an awkward hanging belay. But not terrible.
P2 is slabby with jugs, not so bad. Small belay ledge though; there was no room for the follower if the leader was on it. We had the leader scramble up this huge shelf to make room for the second.
Can be rappelled in one go with a 70 meter rope.[ But, see comment by Jonah. Had his rope shrunk a bit? R Hall, Admin. ]
Currently there are pig-tail anchors at the top, and the eyebolts are a little too narrow to fit a big biner such as the rocklock. Come prepared with positrons or other smaller-type locking biners in order to go in direct to make the rappel/clean.
According to Ward Smith:
Do NOT belay at the top of the second pitch, it is not set up for it (the anchor is below the ledge).
Lead the second pitch then have your second TR (or lead) it sport style.
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