Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Smith 5/16
Page Views: 2,315 total · 69/month
Shared By: Alessandro Pruscino on May 18, 2016 with updates from Jeffrey LeCours
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


68 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a 2 pitch sport line. I would say that the climbing is not technical but there are some exposed moves. Tons of jugs, you just have to find them...

P1 is the scarier pitch, definitely heady. Belay ledge is an awkward hanging belay. But not terrible.

P2 is slabby with jugs, not so bad. Small belay ledge though; there was no room for the follower if the leader was on it. We had the leader scramble up this huge shelf to make room for the second.

Can be rappelled in one go with a 70 meter rope.

Currently there are pig-tail anchors at the top, and the eyebolts are a little too narrow to fit a big biner such as the rocklock. Come prepared with positrons or other smaller-type locking biners in order to go in direct to make the rappel/clean.

According to Ward Smith:
Do NOT belay at the top of the second pitch, it is not set up for it (the anchor is below the ledge).
Lead the second pitch then have your second TR (or lead) it sport style.

Location

5 feet to the left of Crowd pleaser, starts just right of a base of a tree.

Protection

Bolts.
P1 is 9 bolts to Bolt belay.
P2 is 6 bolts to LO.

Photos

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
  5.6
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
  5.6
The route is named "Model Citizen," 5.6

Deserves three stars, four if you do it in one pitch.

FA: Chris Smith, 5/16

Pitch one is 9 bolts to Bolt belay.
Second pitch is 6 bolts to LO.
Do NOT belay at the top of the second pitch, it is not set up for it (the anchor is below the ledge).
Lead the second pitch then have your second TR (or lead) it sport style.

If you are a very experienced climbed, the best way to do the route is in one LONG pitch, tie a knot in the other end of the rope, lower from the top anchor to the first anchor, tie in, pull the rope and then lower to the ground. May 19, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Another great new moderate, thanks for the hard work guys! I did the whole route in one pitch, lowered to the first pitch anchor, belayed my second from there, lowered my second all the way to the ground, pulled the rope, then rapped exactly as Ward suggests and would definitely recommend doing it that way.

Despite the 15 bolts to the top, it is actually very straightforward and just using a few extended draws near the beginning and at and around the first pitch anchor kept the rope drag very minimal. It might not even be that bad if you used all quickdraws. I back-cleaned the first bolt after clipping into the second.

Anyone know what the bolt line that goes up and left from the Toady Dreams anchors is? It looks like this first pitch could easily be linked up with whatever that pitch is. May 22, 2016
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
  5.6
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
  5.6
White Toad (5.7). May 22, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.7
S. Neoh  
  5.7
Really enjoyable route. Many thanks to Chris and Team Tough. Oh yeah, they are back with a vengeance!
With rope stretch, and an untrimmed 70m rope, I was BARELY able to be lowered all the way to the ground from the second set of anchors after leading up the route. Both ends of the rope were knotted. If you want to do the same, you will want to knot your rope too as there was LESS THAN TWO FEET Of rope left after I touched down, even with rope stretch.
To minimize rope drag, consider back cleaning the first draw and use a two-foot sling on the first bolt AFTER the first set of anchors. You can put a mid-length draw on the first set of anchors without increasing drag.
If you can, definitely do this moderate as one long pitch (about 115 feet) to the second set of anchors. You will be glad you did! May 29, 2016