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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: George Wendell II and III 1960's
Page Views: 951 total, 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I know nobody is surprised when i say that i love a route that no one has ever heard of let alone climbed... But this is one more to add to the list... Sure there are better routes to climb at Rumney but why not climb them all and if your going to climb them why not enjoy your self... This is likely to be the first route at Rumney and i think it was a great pick for the times following a weakness up the full height of Main Cliff with a hair raising finish...

Pitch 1: Start as for White Toad (5.7) climbing a vegetated corner and when you get to the first pin where WT breaks right continue up and then left following the path of least resistance... Follow a wide crack up and left on slabby rock (I once heard a not to confident party cursing that they wanted a wide cam here but i didn't use one)... This will bring you to the Charity Case anchor...

Intermission: You might want to move the belay to the base of the next pitch... I think there is one bolt and some nut/tcu placements there... This is not so much a pitch as a walk on a ledge... You can run the 1st pitch out to here but then it's quite long...

Pitch 2: Wendell's second pitch starts roughly under the finish of Rock Du Jours going up 20-25 feet then heading right on a more obvious line following cracks and face holds past fixed pins and a few tricky placements. The climbing here is moderate... Just below the top you will get to a steep section where you have to traverse right (crux) in a very exposed position under some roofs that have a gunks like quality where you find your way around things rather than blasting through them... These moves are my reason for loving this route... The upper crux moves are protected by old pins but you may be able to get other gear in as well...

Lower off with a 60m rope freehanging down to the ledge and belay the follower from the charity case anchor... Have them clean the route and lower down to you...

Location

You can either get to the base from the Charity Case anchor and head left or from the center Main Cliff area heading up and right below Goldbug etc...

The route climbs the corner to the left of the big roof of Freebird...
Start anchored below a face 100 feet left of the Charity Case anchor... Roughly below the finish of Rock Du Jours...

Protection

Trad gear and old rusty pins to anchor...

Photos

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Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.6 PG13
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.6 PG13
Just as a quick word of warning/beta/helpful info:
-If you start this route in the white toad corner, you will find a lot of loose rock as you trend left. Avoid knocking this off into the trail below for obvious reasons.
-The pins at the anchor are totally rusted out. There are other anchor options once you're up there, but if you're looking for the anchors to this route, well don't.
-placements can sometimes be devious, but it is all easy terrain.

Head towards the birch tree and have fun! Jul 25, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It heads up basically towards the tree on the left. Dec 8, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I believe the final pitch comes up to the left of Freebird. Does it then traverse under the roof and finish up near the anchors of High Roller? (or probably more to the grade, the last pitch anchor on White Toad?

I was using this photo as a reference (green line is Freebird):

Dec 8, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I forgot. There are actually three George Wendells Nov 29, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just updated the route info... Nov 28, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
oh yeah... i couldnt remember if that pitch was part of it but thats how i started it when i first did it... thanks for the comment...

the last pitch is definatly the best one... Nov 28, 2007
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Lee, I think Wendell's Route actually starts with another pitch beginning down near White Toad. When climbing at the upper Orange Crush we used to run over to the top of the Main Cliff above White Toad, rap down on a single strand and be top belayed up. Then we could climb 200 feet of moderate climbing without stopping for a warm-up. ( if you do this, make sure you are already tied in to the bottom of the rope as the rope just gets you down with stretch). While doing every conceivable variation I found some old pins in the crack/dyke system that angles up left towards where you begin the route. It was very vegetated on the lower part so the pins were hard to see.

As a side note, George Wendell used to come and hang out with us at the parking lot in the morning to escape his wife and have a smoke. We always wanted to get him up to the cliffs to show him what was going on with the new climbers but he was pretty frail by then. I believe he passed away 7 or 8 years ago. I think that he was George Jr and he used to climb with his dad, but I am not completely sure on that. A nice guy and a charactor Nov 27, 2007