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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,653 total · 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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34 Opinions

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A nice link up that makes for an all bolted route to the exposed top of White Toad. The second pitch is nothing special as it is much like a side walk but it could get your nerves going if you aren't used to running it out on easy terrain.

Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case (5.9) to the anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow a very moderate line traversing right past 2 bolts (very run out, but moderate) to a really cool belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Finish up the 3rd pitch of White Toad to a chain anchor.

You can lower back to the belay ledge as you would on any other sport route. Then your second can clean it and one 60m rap will get you back to the ground. Tie knots in the ends of your rope cause not all ropes are created equal and its a 100 foot rappel.


Start as for Charity Case about 30 feet left of the start of White Toad (5.7).


Bolts all the way. I'd bring 10-12 draws and some gear to set up belays on the bolted anchors.


E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
It would be hard to find a more exposed 5.8 sport pitch then the third one on this link up. The route finishes with a short easy overhang with 150+ of air beneath you. Very fun. Mar 29, 2009
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is an awesome route in addition to the 2 bolts on the second pitch there is an old piton that look like it should hold ;) Aug 11, 2010
North Wilmot, New Hampshire
SmithBro   North Wilmot, New Hampshire
I run pitches 1/2 together,and clip 1 more bolt on High roller with a runner. Feb 26, 2011
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
This is so fun! Definitely rap down from the belay ledge after the traverse. You won't make it down from the top. Mar 23, 2013
Morro Bay, CA
ChrisN   Morro Bay, CA
Didn't really see a reason not to combine the first pitch with the second pitch traverse. Sep 20, 2015
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Lee, there are bolted anchors for the climb. You may want to remove the section in Protection where it is suggested to bring gear for anchors ... no need.

We combined the traverse and the 3rd pitch of White Toad together, just ran a 4' runner at the anchor for White Toad and there was no noticeable rope drag. We lowered to the anchors and down climbed the traverse for practice. Took the long way down, but it was fun and interesting. Nice exposure for down climbing. Aug 20, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
By gear I meant slings and locking biners. Sorry if that wasnt clear. I guess I can be more specific. I'll take care of it. Aug 21, 2016

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