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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Dave Graham (onsight)
Page Views: 713 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Stick clip a bolt or two.
Climb up in to the small left facing corner. Layback, kneebar and crimp your way up to gain the obvious ledge with your hands. Make a clip from a good hold and hand traverse right. Mantel to a comfortable stance. Make your clips and ponder the crux section.
I found the path of least resistance to be moving right to surmount a slab via some tiny edges. The crux is reaching the anchors. balance and say a few prayers while you attempt to levitate up and left to clip the chains.

The placement of the last bolt and the anchor seem weird. I feel like the route would be much more popular if the anchor was a few feet down and to the right. Luckly I don't mind a challenge. I'm up for a brutal slabby crux any day of the week :)

Location

The right hand route that climbs out of the cave on the far right end of Main Cliff. This is the first area you get to when you hike up from the small parking lot.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Glad you got it Eric!!! Jul 31, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12c
After reading Lee's description, I was terrified to climb this one just because I hate slabs. Even more when you have to mantle it. Then it gets worse. You have to clip super far in a precarious stance with a possible bad pendulum fall. I still had to climb it and this weekend it was dry.
I went up to the scary crux and confirmed that I would never do that finish.
Fifteen minutes later I had a super solid beta that felt like 12c and allowed me to clip with a stance straight in front of the anchor. You do however need a double draw at the anchor. Anybody who is interested in my beta can contact me and I'd be glad to share. Jul 30, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I found things to go pretty well until the very top.

If the anchors were a little lower it would be 12a(ish) IMO...

however, as it stands there is either a ridiculously big move or a hard delicate mantle/slab to get to the anchor. I went with the slab option since that's my groove... GOOD LUCK!

(and watch out for falling ice down there this time of year!) Mar 5, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Is there a distinct crux on this route? I got on it today and the bottom felt pretty hard, but with good beta I was able to do all the moves and get established on the layback/flake. Mar 4, 2015