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Routes in Main Cliff Right
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Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Pie* T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Toad* S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Freebird* T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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High Roller* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Losing Eleven* S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Magic Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Helmet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Resurrection Stone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stained Glass Ceiling* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stairway to Heaven* S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,081 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Aug 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
One of my favorite moderates at Rumney due to its fun climbing and killer exposure. If you like a feeling of adventure with your sport cragging, this climb is for you. Look for the white toads that this route is named for--they sneek up on you. If there is something smooshy in the crack you reach in to its likely to be a white toad.
Pitch 1: Start in a somewhat dirty corner up the hill from the harder sport routes in this section. Stem your way up about 20 feet to a fixed pin. Clip the pin and step out right on to a face (5.7) head straight up on nice rock with good gear to a stance under a steep section. Place a good hand sized cam above and avoid the steep stuff by traversing right along a flake then back left to a tricky move (5.7) to gain a nice belay alcove with 2 bolts. If you gain the ledge directly its about 5.9.
Pitch 2: I normally do the variation called Dead Toad (5.8) which goes out left and is all bolted. The original route however heads up the slab ramp on the right (5.6) with minimal gear then back left following bolts to a great exposed belay ledge directly above the first belay. 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: This pitch is all bolted and is super exposed and fun. Climb straight up above the belay ledge following bolts until you get to a blank steep slab move right here (the farther right you go the easier. I think a few holds broke making it more attractive to go right) then back left and over a steep challenging bulge (5.7) and on to the chains at the top.
Most people lower back to the ledge from the top pitch as you would for most sport routes. Then the second can clean the route and you can pull the rope. One 60m rope stretch will get you to the ground from the second belay. Tie stopper knots in the rope ends just to be safe.
Pitch 1: Start in a somewhat dirty corner up the hill from the harder sport routes in this section. Stem your way up about 20 feet to a fixed pin. Clip the pin and step out right on to a face (5.7) head straight up on nice rock with good gear to a stance under a steep section. Place a good hand sized cam above and avoid the steep stuff by traversing right along a flake then back left to a tricky move (5.7) to gain a nice belay alcove with 2 bolts. If you gain the ledge directly its about 5.9.
Pitch 2: I normally do the variation called Dead Toad (5.8) which goes out left and is all bolted. The original route however heads up the slab ramp on the right (5.6) with minimal gear then back left following bolts to a great exposed belay ledge directly above the first belay. 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: This pitch is all bolted and is super exposed and fun. Climb straight up above the belay ledge following bolts until you get to a blank steep slab move right here (the farther right you go the easier. I think a few holds broke making it more attractive to go right) then back left and over a steep challenging bulge (5.7) and on to the chains at the top.
Most people lower back to the ledge from the top pitch as you would for most sport routes. Then the second can clean the route and you can pull the rope. One 60m rope stretch will get you to the ground from the second belay. Tie stopper knots in the rope ends just to be safe.
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