Avg: 2.7 from 49 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,020 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Pitch 1: Start in a somewhat dirty corner up the hill from the harder sport routes in this section. Stem your way up about 20 feet to a fixed pin. Clip the pin and step out right on to a face (5.7) head straight up on nice rock with good gear to a stance under a steep section. Place a good hand sized cam above and avoid the steep stuff by traversing right along a flake then back left to a tricky move (5.7) to gain a nice belay alcove with 2 bolts. If you gain the ledge directly its about 5.9.
Pitch 2: I normally do the variation called Dead Toad (5.8) which goes out left and is all bolted. The original route however heads up the slab ramp on the right (5.6) with minimal gear then back left following bolts to a great exposed belay ledge directly above the first belay. 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: This pitch is all bolted and is super exposed and fun. Climb straight up above the belay ledge following bolts until you get to a blank steep slab move right here (the farther right you go the easier. I think a few holds broke making it more attractive to go right) then back left and over a steep challenging bulge (5.7) and on to the chains at the top.
Most people lower back to the ledge from the top pitch as you would for most sport routes. Then the second can clean the route and you can pull the rope. One 60m rope stretch will get you to the ground from the second belay. Tie stopper knots in the rope ends just to be safe.