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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 10,789 total, 344/month
Shared By: Matt Levine on May 21, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


127 Opinions

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Description

This is another excellent new two-pitch moderate at the right side of Main Cliff.

The first pitch has great face climbing on positive holds. The second pitch is much more low-angled and leads to a fantastic and exciting arete with some serious exposure for the grade. Look out left and enjoy the view!

Crowd Pleaser should end up being quite, well, the crowd pleaser.

NOTE: There are two sets of anchors atop the first pitch. The first set of anchors that you come to provides a perfect straight line if you wish to just do the first pitch and have followers top rope it. If you wish to do both pitches, however, place a long draw on the anchor to protect the move and step up and right to a second set of anchors. This will leave you on a much more comfortable ledge and in a much better position for the 2nd pitch.

Location

Crowd Pleaser is located on the right side of Main Cliff. Look for a dark streak of rock with glue-in bolts in a left-facing corner. It is to the right of Charity Case, White Toad, and Toady Dreams but to the left of the harder routes in the cave area.

Protection

Bolted Anchors. "No-Gate" Pig-Tail style anchors on the top of the 2nd pitch.

Roughly 8 bolts on each pitch.

60 METER ROPE REQUIRED

2 single-rope raps to the ground
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
P1 goes great on gear. Make sure you have BD 0.2 and 0.3 cams/Blue and Yellow metolius mastercams or equivalent.

Second pitch is even better than the first, make sure you do it if it's dry.

Main Cliff Right is a horrible place to be in spring when the ice above you is still melting and falling down in deadly chunks. Stay away. Aug 3, 2017
Punter Brewster
Chattanooga, TN
 
Punter Brewster   Chattanooga, TN
 
P1 was ok, but P2 was very dirty and crumbly. Perhaps it will clean up with more traffic. Jul 5, 2017
S. Neoh
  5.8-
S. Neoh  
  5.8-
We tried to lower the leader all the way to the ground after he linked both pitches to the top. Alas, was not able to make it with a 70 m rope; about 30 feet short. Pulling the rope after (with all the drag) was much harder than climbing the route itself! Jul 31, 2016
Mark NH
03053
  5.7
Mark NH   03053
  5.7
Thanks Dave for an awesome route. Or I should say first pitch. It was baking up on the second so we rapped back down and will certainly be back to do it on a cooler or cloudy day! The second looks like great fun!

And agreed the first pitch is a great pitch at 5.7.

What amazes me is that folks (myself included) have been walking by this the last 30 plus years! Jul 17, 2015
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
 
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
 
Fun climb!!! I really enjoyed the top half of the 2nd pitch. Jul 11, 2015
Ming
 
Ming  
 
Yep I used an 70. You can easily use a 60 also if you belay from the top. The 70 I need to do 2 raps. The rope was not close to the ground from the top anchors to do it in one rap - from the looks of it I doubt an 80 will get you down in one rap. Jun 15, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Ming, did you use a 70? I was thinking about doing that myself when I was on it again on Saturday. Jun 15, 2015
Ming
 
Ming  
 
Linked both pitches and belayed from the top of the 2nd pitch. It was around 150-160 feet and had to skip a few bolts on the 2nd pitch to keep the rope drag manageable (apline draws would've helped alot there). First pitch is one of the best 5.7s at Rumney - it just brings a smile to my face as I was climbing it and the 2nd pitch clocked in at 5.6 or so but the position is amazing - the arete is really airy and fun. Jun 15, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.8-
S. Neoh  
  5.8-
Both pitches are quite enjoyable. And the view from the top! NICE.
Solid 2.5 stars from me. And AMAZINGLY clean and solid for such a new route. Take a bow, Dave. Well done and THANK YOU.
The pig-tail, no-gate anchors look a little funny but totally works. First time for me.
The finish is a little confusing as the finish for Tipping Point comes in on the right. For this route, stay on the left slabby arĂȘte, and much larger footholds. Jun 7, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
That's a shame about the biners, Dave. Thanks again, I really enjoyed this one. May 27, 2015
Thanks for posting the route Matt! You did a great job on the description! One comment I would like to add is that someone has already taken the "fixed" carabiners that I left on the anchors, at least one was taken from the new route "Tipping Point" as well. When you encounter carabiners at an anchor on a route in Rumney, they ARE NOT "booty". In this case they were my carabiners which I paid for and temporarily donated to the route until permanent hardware can be placed! New routes cost, in this case, hundreds of dollars to put up, all of which comes from the pocket of the developer, so when climbers come along and steal the hardware, either intentionally or unintentionally it is somewhat disheartening. Please do not take ANY hardware from anchors that you did not place.
Thank you and enjoy! May 27, 2015
ward smith  
 
Get on it now before the new guide comes out because it will have a line on it forever. May 25, 2015