Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ward Smith Nov 2014
Page Views: 2,701 total · 40/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 3, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

On the very right side of the Get It On cave, there is a quartz section low to the ground. Some bouldering has happened on this interestingly featured rock over the years, mostly while waiting out a passing rain storm or playing around while waiting for a turn. I never thought to continue the climbing in to a full route, but I'm glad someone did. The route Ward added might have a brief crux, but the climbing is interesting, the rock is perfect, and the route is worthwhile.

Stick clip a bolt or two and then get bouldery as you move trough the quartz and in to the schist. Steep juggy holds lead to a powerful crux (a bit easier if tall) involving an undercling, some funky footwork and ultimately a nice pay off in the way of a solid jug at the end of the crux. From there rest stances abound and the climbing is no harder than 5.9 or 5.10- but it's fun and well worth doing.

One nice detail is that the two 5.12s to the left are almost always wet and this one was bone dry as the icicles built up on its neighbors. What? You don't climb on icicle days?

Location

Starts out the right side of the cave on the right side of main cliff. look for the pretty stainless glue-ins.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors if i remember correctly.
My brain was frozen

Photos