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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ward Smith Nov 2014
Page Views: 1,677 total, 47/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 3, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

On the very right side of the Get It On cave, there is a quartz section low to the ground. Some bouldering has happened on this interestingly featured rock over the years, mostly while waiting out a passing rain storm or playing around while waiting for a turn. I never thought to continue the climbing in to a full route, but I'm glad someone did. The route Ward added might have a brief crux, but the climbing is interesting, the rock is perfect, and the route is worthwhile.

Stick clip a bolt or two and then get bouldery as you move trough the quartz and in to the schist. Steep juggy holds lead to a powerful crux (a bit easier if tall) involving an undercling, some funky footwork and ultimately a nice pay off in the way of a solid jug at the end of the crux. From there rest stances abound and the climbing is no harder than 5.9 or 5.10- but it's fun and well worth doing.

One nice detail is that the two 5.12s to the left are almost always wet and this one was bone dry as the icicles built up on its neighbors. What? You don't climb on icicle days?

Location

Starts out the right side of the cave on the right side of main cliff. look for the pretty stainless glue-ins.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors if i remember correctly.
My brain was frozen
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Key point is that you havent much to compare it to. Congrats, you are stronger than you thought. :) Oct 4, 2016
Bob Cooper III
  5.11d
Bob Cooper III  
  5.11d
I repeated this yesterday and added the sit start. It's silly, but it was really fun and added a few moves to the meat of the climb. I've not done many climbs at this, or any grade really, but it does seem soft to me, even at 12a. If someone told me this was some flavor of 11 before I got on it I would have had no problem with the grade. Oct 3, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.12a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.12a
Dihedral: 5.9 Sep 18, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
hahaha eric. I'm only 6'2" :P Sep 11, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
  5.12a/b
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
  5.12a/b
I think I saw the easier sequence yesterday. Friend got up into the dihedral, made the clip, and then stemmed really far left until he was able to just walk up the arrete. Sep 10, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
A video of a 6'4" climber that climbs like a 5'6"!!!
Will that help anybody Lee? Hahaha... Sep 9, 2016
S. Neoh  
Make that three who is wondering how the dihedral is not at least 5.10. We attempted the route under the watchful eye of DaveQ who later told us that the top can go as an almost arete climb rather than a dihedral. Not quite sure how that is done. Maybe that way makes it easier than staying in the dihedral.

V4/V4+ for the midway bouldery crux seems about right. I have no ape factor at 5'5". Sep 8, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I'll try to catch some video of it at some point. Mostly tricky footwork. Sep 8, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
  5.12a/b
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
  5.12a/b
I'd love to hear how you guys turn the dihedral into a 5.9 sequence. I'd agree with Eric that it felt like an 11 up there. Sep 8, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.12a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.12a
This is a pretty cool climb, a fun boulder problem to nice easy top section. I agree the exit from the dihedral to the slab at the top is no harder than 5.9, it is just not very obvious when you get there. Oct 9, 2015
eric parham
  5.12a
eric parham  
  5.12a
I am 5'8 and it felt no harder than a/b. I could see a few inches dropping that grade a bit. The top is no harder than 5.9. Aug 2, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
Great short route. The rock is really nice. This will qualify as the easiest 12b in Rumney. It felt almost soft for 12a. Even if something broke at the top, the exit feels like 5.11b to me. Jul 5, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
A great addition. Who knew that such nice rock was hiding under all that lichen up top? Well, I guess Ward knew! Jun 25, 2015
Lavery
  5.12b
Lavery  
  5.12b
Fun route. Especially nice that even on the most crowded days, I've never seen another climber down here. May 3, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.12-
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.12-
A couple burly moves leading into a couple technical moves, and then a rest-fest until the top. Mar 10, 2015
ward smith
5.12a/b
ward smith  
5.12a/b
Been walking by this forever, but it turned out better than I thought. Only downside is that the crux is a bit height-dependant; I think short climbers will find it stiff. Jan 3, 2015