Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond
Page Views: 820 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Climb your prefered start, the original start is on Wendels Route (trad). This beginning can be wet, wide and over grown so you might do better to climb the nice clean Charity Case 5.9 (bolted) unless adventure is one of your primary goals. These routes both lead to a shared belay on a nice ledge way below the big orange roof. or you can clip that anchor and walk left to another anchor (or at least 1 bolt with gear options) that is hard to see but over there.

Pitch 2: Continue up Wendels Route (some route finding to do here as I remember) until you see a nice, huge undercling flake heading across the wall to the left. Climb that sweet flake to meet up with the last bit of Rock Du Jours. You might want to split this pitch up due to rope drag. 2 rappels with a 60 meter rope to the ground.

Side note: It has been maybe 10+ years since I last did this route. LOTS of bolts have gone in on this wall since then so you will run in to bolts along the way. Not sure exactly how "trad" it is these days.

Location

Start in the corner where White Toad (5.7) starts. Or you can do Charity Case (5.9) as the first pitch. You will finish as for Rock Du Jours (5.8).

Protection

Regular rack and you will find some bolts too. Maybe some bigger cams too, though i didnt use any larger than #3 camalot.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The FA was lead by Tom Bowker. I am not sure who his partner was that day. Maybe he will fill us in on history. Nov 20, 2011
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
Ted Hammond was with me. Nov 26, 2012