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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Smith 11/00
Page Views: 3,249 total · 27/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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38 Opinions

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Description

This route is just plain FUN!!! It is playful and challenging and exposed and if you climb at this level and aren't wicked short (some pretty big moves) just get out there and do it. This is the most fun route on the right side of the cliff.

Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case (5.9 and fun in it's own right) to the anchor and belay.

Pitch 2: Climb up and slightly right on moderate climbing following bolts till the rock steepens and the holds thin a little. Make heroic moves up the inverted section above maybe even hucking a little dyno at some point. A few good rests will help you keep on keepin on. Climb a couple more tricky bulges till you end up on the crazy exposed arete way off the deck and make intimidating but not too hard moves to a clipping jug at the quick clips.

Lower back down to the anchor and rap to the ground.

Sooooo Fun!!!!!

Location

Technically the route starts at the anchors at the top of Charity Case (5.9). I put it in as a two pitch route so folks would plan to have to do it multipitch style.

Protection

10 bolts to quick clips.
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
It's been some 6 years or so since I've climbed this route, but I clearly remember totally diggin' it. As lee describes, this route has great exposure, a bit of heroism, some pucker, but nothing dangerous, and definitely nothing to have any reservations about. Not to mention, it's a two pitch route at Rumney! Oct 21, 2008
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I climbed this today and neither my partner nor I find it to be particularly dynamic as the book and lee describe. In fact, I can't think of any move that we didn't do statically. Perhaps we did the crux a little differently. It's a very incredible route. Nov 14, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
sorry if i made it sound like you HAD to dyno... i just liked the move best that way :) sooooo glad you got on it.... such a great climb! Nov 14, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Don't be sorry Lee, it was more the guide book that lead me astray, but we weren't disappointed in the least. I'd be interested in hearing how you get through the crux at some point. Nov 14, 2010
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.11c
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.11c
I made a toss near the end of the crux sequence which was pretty memorable with all that space up there. The hold I threw to was a big flat left hand below the ledge that I matched afterwards. My partner went to it R handed and static but with my foot positioning it was easier to go L (and I'll venture more exciting). All-in-all, great route with wonderful positioning. I was lamenting that Rumney doesn't have as many classic 11+ as it does mid 12's but then you discover routes like this and are reminded that many gems still exist. Jul 20, 2012
john gregory
Lebanon, NH
john gregory   Lebanon, NH
have had this on the list for years. following the sun on a cold 32 degree day we finished our day on this route, it was worth the wait as it is now rebolted with fresh glue-ins, thank you very kindly. this is a very good route and if were on the main proper would be worked regularly. very nice juggy, onsightable holds with great exposure. you can traverse over to it off the main cliff by skirting the base of rock du jours and stairway to heaven (another uncelebrated route). Nov 14, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.11d
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.11d
Killer route, for it shorties will probably feel a little sandbagged. May 15, 2018

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