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High Roller*

5.11c, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 73 votes
FA: Chris Smith 11/00
New Hampshire > Rumney > Main Cliff Right

Description

This route is just plain FUN!!! It is playful and challenging and exposed and if you climb at this level and aren't wicked short (some pretty big moves) just get out there and do it. This is the most fun route on the right side of the cliff.

Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case (5.9 and fun in it's own right) to the anchor and belay.

Pitch 2: Climb up and slightly right on moderate climbing following bolts till the rock steepens and the holds thin a little. Make heroic moves up the inverted section above maybe even hucking a little dyno at some point. A few good rests will help you keep on keepin on. Climb a couple more tricky bulges till you end up on the crazy exposed arete way off the deck and make intimidating but not too hard moves to a clipping jug at the quick clips.

Lower back down to the anchor and rap to the ground.

Sooooo Fun!!!!!

Location

Technically the route starts at the anchors at the top of Charity Case (5.9). I put it in as a two pitch route so folks would plan to have to do it multipitch style.

Protection

10 bolts to quick clips.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

this crux can be done statically but it's fun to jump for the jug <br>
[Hide Photo] this crux can be done statically but it's fun to jump for the jug
Matt finishing off the crux
[Hide Photo] Matt finishing off the crux
chloe going for it :)
[Hide Photo] chloe going for it :)
chloe...
[Hide Photo] chloe...
classic...
[Hide Photo] classic...
the wide angle warps it a bit but the point is... beautiful exposed climbing
[Hide Photo] the wide angle warps it a bit but the point is... beautiful exposed climbing
A party starting the route on an amazing autumn day
[Hide Photo] A party starting the route on an amazing autumn day
high roller
[Hide Photo] high roller
Greg, A new angle on the crux
[Hide Photo] Greg, A new angle on the crux
Bunnell on the rest ledge of high roller.
[Hide Photo] Bunnell on the rest ledge of high roller.
the view from the top :)
[Hide Photo] the view from the top :)
getting in to the crux
[Hide Photo] getting in to the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
[Hide Comment] It's been some 6 years or so since I've climbed this route, but I clearly remember totally diggin' it. As lee describes, this route has great exposure, a bit of heroism, some pucker, but nothing dangerous, and definitely nothing to have any reservations about. Not to mention, it's a two pitch route at Rumney! Oct 21, 2008
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this today and neither my partner nor I find it to be particularly dynamic as the book and lee describe. In fact, I can't think of any move that we didn't do statically. Perhaps we did the crux a little differently. It's a very incredible route. Nov 14, 2010
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] sorry if i made it sound like you HAD to dyno... i just liked the move best that way :) sooooo glad you got on it.... such a great climb! Nov 14, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
[Hide Comment] Don't be sorry Lee, it was more the guide book that lead me astray, but we weren't disappointed in the least. I'd be interested in hearing how you get through the crux at some point. Nov 14, 2010
tscupp
Fruita, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I made a toss near the end of the crux sequence which was pretty memorable with all that space up there. The hold I threw to was a big flat left hand below the ledge that I matched afterwards. My partner went to it R handed and static but with my foot positioning it was easier to go L (and I'll venture more exciting). All-in-all, great route with wonderful positioning. I was lamenting that Rumney doesn't have as many classic 11+ as it does mid 12's but then you discover routes like this and are reminded that many gems still exist. Jul 20, 2012
[Hide Comment] have had this on the list for years. following the sun on a cold 32 degree day we finished our day on this route, it was worth the wait as it is now rebolted with fresh glue-ins, thank you very kindly. this is a very good route and if were on the main proper would be worked regularly. very nice juggy, onsightable holds with great exposure. you can traverse over to it off the main cliff by skirting the base of rock du jours and stairway to heaven (another uncelebrated route). Nov 14, 2013
Jennifer Sun
Newton, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Shorties should not hesitate to get on this. I'm 5'2" and didn't find it reachy or sandbagged. Nice movement & great exposure -- fun route! Oct 20, 2018