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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 698 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Hahaha, oh boy... In my quest to climb all the routes at rumney ive been on more than a few crappy routes... This one is up there... If you like loose rocks, moss, grass, trees, dank wet cracks and a low crux with weird gear that might be high enough off the ground to keep you off the deck and might not... Have at it...

Start as for Friendship Tower but rather than following bolts out right plug in some awkward gear and pull the crux roof straight up and left on to a slab... get some gear and head up the nasty corner on loose rocks and through the jungle of vegitation above... Head out right to a shared anchor with Friendship Tower (5.10b)...

Location

Start at Friendship Tower and break up and left out a roof and on to a slab...

Protection

Nuts and small cams...

Photos

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Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This can be pretty safely top-roped from the Crowd Pleaser P1 anchors. I thought I may have done a first ascent until checking MP and finding out that of course Lee had done it on gear somehow...

I actually liked it. Getting up in the roof and then pulling through it was great, and I found a good amount of clean, solid rock above by staying in the middle of the route, away from that dirty gully. It may have been a bit contrived, as the tougher moves on clean rock can be bypassed with easier moves on disgusting rock AND the whole roof sequence could easily be bypassed with the ramp to the left - but I think the route would be a solid 1-2 star route with some bolts that kept the climber on the good rock instead of R-rated trad gear :)

It may be worth considering, as the additions of a classic 5.6 and 5.7 right next to it will guarantee crowds to this area once the word is out. May 22, 2016
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Ted Hammond and I climbed this in 1981 and vowed to not climb it again. Sep 26, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10- R
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10- R
Gear List:
Sling and biner
BD.5 Cam
BD #1 Cam
Two extendable draws (2nd Bolt and 1st Cam)
A handful of regular draws for the last couple bolts on the first pitch of crowd pleaser. Sep 16, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10a PG13
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10a PG13
I climbed this one on top rope after leading Friendship Tower and I don't think this one would be a bomb if it was bolted.
That would be an easy 10a option for people who wants to warm-up while the classics at the Iron Man wall are all busy... Jan 27, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Haha, yeah i think it must have been...

It's become like a weird sub-sport for me, seeking out the routes no one does (and sometimes for good reason)... But i had fun doing it in my own strange way...

I admit it's a bit of an odd hobbie... Jul 11, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I can't believe you climbed this Lee. Maybe yours was the second ascent. Jul 11, 2008