Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 793 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Hahaha, oh boy... In my quest to climb all the routes at rumney ive been on more than a few crappy routes... This one is up there... If you like loose rocks, moss, grass, trees, dank wet cracks and a low crux with weird gear that might be high enough off the ground to keep you off the deck and might not... Have at it...

Start as for Friendship Tower but rather than following bolts out right plug in some awkward gear and pull the crux roof straight up and left on to a slab... get some gear and head up the nasty corner on loose rocks and through the jungle of vegitation above... Head out right to a shared anchor with Friendship Tower (5.10b)...

Location

Start at Friendship Tower and break up and left out a roof and on to a slab...

Protection

Nuts and small cams...

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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I can't believe you climbed this Lee. Maybe yours was the second ascent. Jul 11, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10a
Haha, yeah i think it must have been...

It's become like a weird sub-sport for me, seeking out the routes no one does (and sometimes for good reason)... But i had fun doing it in my own strange way...

I admit it's a bit of an odd hobbie... Jul 11, 2008
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10a PG13
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.10a PG13
I climbed this one on top rope after leading Friendship Tower and I don't think this one would be a bomb if it was bolted.
That would be an easy 10a option for people who wants to warm-up while the classics at the Iron Man wall are all busy... Jan 27, 2014
Bobby Mustard
  5.10- R
Bobby Mustard  
  5.10- R
Gear List: Sling, .5, #1, draws. Clipping the bolts on crowd pleaser will feel pretty good after slinging the 1" birch tree through the dirt chimney. Sep 16, 2015
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Ted Hammond and I climbed this in 1981 and vowed to not climb it again. Sep 26, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This can be pretty safely top-roped from the Crowd Pleaser P1 anchors. I thought I may have done a first ascent until checking MP and finding out that of course Lee had done it on gear somehow...

I actually liked it. Getting up in the roof and then pulling through it was great, and I found a good amount of clean, solid rock above by staying in the middle of the route, away from that dirty gully. It may have been a bit contrived, as the tougher moves on clean rock can be bypassed with easier moves on disgusting rock AND the whole roof sequence could easily be bypassed with the ramp to the left - but I think the route would be a solid 1-2 star route with some bolts that kept the climber on the good rock instead of R-rated trad gear :)

It may be worth considering, as the additions of a classic 5.6 and 5.7 right next to it will guarantee crowds to this area once the word is out. May 22, 2016