Magic Helmet

I just noticed this route the other day. Before the rock fall, I can't seem to remember ever looking at the face, but now with all the trees gone, it looks really prominent. Mar 1, 2011

not a bad little climb... the interesting climbing doesnt last too long but its worth doing... May 23, 2011

Got on this today and took it too casually. Tricky! The last 15 feet or so packs quite a punch for such a short route. I found it quite hard to get established to clip the last eye-bolt. Worth at least one run. Probably 10c (more or less). Jun 4, 2011

Fun and tricky finish. Not too bad once you figure out where the holds are and how to use them. I found it easier to clip the last bolt from holds just above it.

Also, if you have someone following, it might be good to unclip the second and third bolts, since the rightward position of the second bolt would cause a swing into the tree on the right if one were to fall on the initial slab. Aug 14, 2011

My friend and I climbed this today. He had to back down and I had to hangdog this a bit to figure out the sequence. Took some falls before the fourth bolts, it was very clean. My friend broke a good sized foothold a bit left off route, almost beaned me on the way down. Aug 27, 2011

This seemed really hard for a 10a. Maybe I missed something but, I think this is actually harder than The Big Angler over on kennel wall which is "11a". Jul 22, 2012

I reclimbed this route this past weekend. Took a few hangs to finally figure out the beta. My friend took a fall coming out of the crux and hit his ankle pretty good on the small ledge to the right of the 3rd bolt. Be careful. Apr 15, 2013

After walking past it dozens of times and always wondering about it I finally got on it today, not a bad little route. The real climbing doesn't really start until the upper half of the route, but the movement's actually pretty cool, IMO its just too short to get more than 2 stars. I agree with S. Neoh, harder than 10a May 10, 2014

It's easy to get drawn out too far left which makes for a tough onsite at the grade, however I think 10a is more than reasonable once you know the right holds. Sep 12, 2015

No way is that double side-pull move 10a. That delicate bit (the traverse left across the arete and up to the semi-good shelf) is 10c in my book. Jul 21, 2016

Has anybody highballed this? I redpointed this last week and the fall potential wasn't too fun...especially far right where the lichens get nasty. Jul 26, 2016

Devious crux. A fall while clipping will put you frighteningly close to the ledge below. Apr 23, 2018

I agree with some people... took me a while to figure it out, wasn't too bad tho - a little balance and a little strength and a little hoping you find/hit the right spot above that last bolt. I'd also recommend not trying to clip the last bolt until you hands are above it, wouldn't wanna blow that clip. Sep 17, 2018