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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,565 total, 19/month
Shared By: SmithBro on Feb 28, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Up the slab, step right, then up and left to the arete at the 4th bolt. Crux action crossing this, and up to the top. The name is a Bugs Bunny reference, And what you would have needed, if on the climb during the big rockfall.

Location

At the toe of the buttress, before turning up to Iron Man wall. 50 feet left of Charity Case.

Protection

5 bolts anchor

Photos

Ian Strug
Chicago, IL
  5.11a PG13
Ian Strug   Chicago, IL
  5.11a PG13
Has anybody highballed this? I redpointed this last week and the fall potential wasn't too fun...especially far right where the lichens get nasty. Jul 26, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
No way is that double side-pull move 10a. That delicate bit (the traverse left across the arete and up to the semi-good shelf) is 10c in my book. Jul 21, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10-
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10-
It's easy to get drawn out too far left which makes for a tough onsite at the grade, however I think 10a is more than reasonable once you know the right holds. Sep 12, 2015
J Meagher
  5.10b/c
J Meagher  
  5.10b/c
After walking past it dozens of times and always wondering about it I finally got on it today, not a bad little route. The real climbing doesn't really start until the upper half of the route, but the movement's actually pretty cool, IMO its just too short to get more than 2 stars. I agree with S. Neoh, harder than 10a May 10, 2014
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I reclimbed this route this past weekend. Took a few hangs to finally figure out the beta. My friend took a fall coming out of the crux and hit his ankle pretty good on the small ledge to the right of the 3rd bolt. Be careful. Apr 15, 2013
chris21
  5.10+
chris21  
  5.10+
This seemed really hard for a 10a. Maybe I missed something but, I think this is actually harder than The Big Angler over on kennel wall which is "11a". Jul 22, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
My friend and I climbed this today. He had to back down and I had to hangdog this a bit to figure out the sequence. Took some falls before the fourth bolts, it was very clean. My friend broke a good sized foothold a bit left off route, almost beaned me on the way down. Aug 27, 2011
twellman
Cambridge
  5.10b
twellman   Cambridge
  5.10b
Fun and tricky finish. Not too bad once you figure out where the holds are and how to use them. I found it easier to clip the last bolt from holds just above it.

Also, if you have someone following, it might be good to unclip the second and third bolts, since the rightward position of the second bolt would cause a swing into the tree on the right if one were to fall on the initial slab. Aug 14, 2011
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Got on this today and took it too casually. Tricky! The last 15 feet or so packs quite a punch for such a short route. I found it quite hard to get established to clip the last eye-bolt. Worth at least one run. Probably 10c (more or less). Jun 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10b
not a bad little climb... the interesting climbing doesnt last too long but its worth doing... May 23, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I just noticed this route the other day. Before the rock fall, I can't seem to remember ever looking at the face, but now with all the trees gone, it looks really prominent. Mar 1, 2011