Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 452 total, 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Better than most of the routes in this section. There are a few cool cruxes that are tricky and crimpy climbing through a few distinct layers of rock. The true crux comes at the upper bulge on pretty orange rock.

Start up from the ledge on moderate terrain past two bolts before getting to the first hard moves (might be harder if you are short). Overcome this section on edges at odd angles and interesting footwork past two more bolts and on to a rest ledge. Above is the crimpy crux bulge where reading the rock can be interesting because everything looks like holds but only a few are good. Pull that and make a few easy moves around to the right of a small roof and back to the left to the chains on a slab.

Location

Start on the ledge just right of the beginning of White Toad (5.7).

Protection

6 bolts to ring bolt anchor

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
I'm with Soon. The route follows the bolt line, and it's solid 10c. An alternate name might be "The Battle of the Bulge." Jul 21, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I climbed the route straight up between bolt #3 and #6 today. Found all the right holds. .10c right on the money IMHO. May 29, 2016
ESS
Medford
 
ESS   Medford
 
Like other comments above, I moved right at the crux, where the finish is easier than 5.10
If one was to go straight up the bolt line at the crux I feel like the climb is something like 11b
maybe we are all missing a sequence/move.
Pretty cool climb either way, secluded and available even when main cliff is crowded. Sep 29, 2014
Ming
  5.9+
Ming  
  5.9+
I did this route back in June by accident thinking it was Charity Case. I kept thinking it was Charity Case because every time things got hard a little traverse to the right (about a body length on ledges) of the bolt line seem to make it significantly easier. I never thought I was doing a 10 at all. My second, on the other hand, had all kinds of troubles as he tried a few moves straight up. Nov 14, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
"Did I find an easier sequence thru the crux? Perhaps, since I thought it is significantly easier than 10c." I have since confirmed this; if you are confident about climbing up to one body length to the left or right of the bolt line (don't worry, you can still clip the bolts from good stances), the difficulty is more like 10a. I definitely felt I followed the line of weakness today and had to lean out quite a bit to clip two bolts along the way, albeit from good handholds and stances.
I like this route. 2.5 stars for me. Jun 4, 2011