Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Glenn Cilley 5/95
Page Views: 1,344 total · 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a wild ride of a route up the steep orange roof on the right end of Main Cliff. This roof is very easy to locate from the center Main Cliff area and is intimidating before you even get up there... Then it looks even more so.

Very unfortunately there is some loose rock on the route (though there is one less loose block since Casey and I climbed it. It was the size of a toaster oven and it came close to hitting me and only came to rest down near the road). So be safe up there.

Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case and set up a belay at the top.

Pitch 2: Climb up the face and not so defined crack up above the anchor placing gear. The trad climbing is about 5.9 but not super well protected. About 1/2 way up you get your first bolt and enjoy some nice technical face climbing up to a rest ledge looking out the roof and saying "what!?" It looks hard for sure and it also looks like a few holds may have broken. Sequential climbing heads out the steep roof past a fragile hold to a hard mantel on to the top. I blew this mantel and took a big whip out in to space. The fall is clean but spooky. Clip the chains and lower back to the ledge.

Location

Start from the anchor on the ledge to the left of Charity Case (5.9) anchor below the black corner/crack.

Protection

Regular rack, and 8 draws for the bolted finish.

Photos