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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Glenn Cilley 5/95
Page Views: 1,042 total · 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a wild ride of a route up the steep orange roof on the right end of Main Cliff. This roof is very easy to locate from the center Main Cliff area and is intimidating before you even get up there... Then it looks even more so.

Very unfortunately there is some loose rock on the route (though there is one less loose block since Casey and I climbed it. It was the size of a toaster oven and it came close to hitting me and only came to rest down near the road). So be safe up there.

Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case and set up a belay at the top.

Pitch 2: Climb up the face and not so defined crack up above the anchor placing gear. The trad climbing is about 5.9 but not super well protected. About 1/2 way up you get your first bolt and enjoy some nice technical face climbing up to a rest ledge looking out the roof and saying "what!?" It looks hard for sure and it also looks like a few holds may have broken. Sequential climbing heads out the steep roof past a fragile hold to a hard mantel on to the top. I blew this mantel and took a big whip out in to space. The fall is clean but spooky. Clip the chains and lower back to the ledge.

Location

Start from the anchor on the ledge to the left of Charity Case (5.9) anchor below the black corner/crack.

Protection

Regular rack, and 8 draws for the bolted finish.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
The bottom half can seep a good bit but if you climb the first 2 bolts of Stairway to Heaven (5.10b) (put a long draw on the second bolt) you can move to the right in to the dry section of Free Bird and not miss any of the fun stuff :) Mar 9, 2010
Eli .
GMC3500
Eli .   GMC3500
I've been told this route was re-bolted and possibly retro bolted. Sep 26, 2017
Ian Grant
Cambridge
 
Ian Grant   Cambridge
 
Was just on this and all the bolts seemed nice. There were a few fixed draws which made cleaning much easier. Didn't bring any trad gear and there was a long runout from the belay to the first bolt. Probably about 25 feet and around 5.7? Not something a confident 5.11 climber should struggle on but the fall would be ugly... Be aware, the rock above the roof is SKETCHY. Could have torn off a few brick-sized chunks after/during the final mantle. Fun route though! Sep 26, 2017
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
Got on this today, I admit I was unsure of which route I was getting after, so I was a little surprised (especially the upper 1/3 of the route-----stout crux / not much chalk on this one---- but seemed right for the grade). Charity Case was a good first pitch. Worth doing at least once. Jul 18, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jason, how were the bees up there this July? Sometimes they're really swarming up at the roof. Jul 22, 2018

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