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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 395 total · 108/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Jun 27, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a fun link up I did the other day. It was enjoyable enough that I thought I'd share.

  1. (5.6) Start up the first pitch of Model Citizen,
  2. (5.2) From the belay at the top of the first pitch go up and left past two old rusty bolts to belay on the top of the second pitch of White Toad
  3. (5.7) To finish climb the normal third pitch of White Toad.

The climbing is consistently casual and it takes you on a very fun line to the top of the cliff.

Normal descent as for White Toad (Careful on the rappel)

Location

Locate the start as for Model Citizen, the trail to the Main Cliff from the parking lot spits you out at Main Cliff Right, Model Citizen is the left most of the obvious easy bolt lines, starting right next to a trail towards the top of the jumbled rocks.

Protection

sport

Photos

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S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Can P1 & P2 or P2 & P3 be easily combined to make the link-up two pitches?
We have a 70m rope and will use long slings on the easy P2.
TQ. Jul 19, 2018
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
  5.7
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
  5.7
P1+P2 should combine easily. Might be some rope drag towards the end of P2 if you try that tho. Jul 19, 2018
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
We linked P1&P2 into one long pitch today. The traverse is enjoyably exposed. With two slings and a long draw after the P1 anchor, rope drag was minimal. Jul 21, 2018

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