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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Tim Kemple Jr.
Page Views: 3,185 total, 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

A stout little route that will get your tendons working right off the ground, Get It On is known to be burly but a little technique would certainly make it a bit more reasonable.

Stick clip the first or second bolt and use a couple good holds to establish your self on the route. Enjoy the good holds because they run out quickly. Puzzle out a sequence from the many crimps above. Looks like there are many options but they are all quite hard, this is the meat of the climb for sure. A final long move gets you to a good hold midway up the climb and though its not over things ease up a good bit. Use pockets and crimps through here to gain a nice jug at the top and clip those chains.

Looked like holds have broken off in a few places. I don't know if the route has changed much since the guide came out. It feels 5.12d to me.

Location

On the far right end of Main Cliff you will see a 50 foot tall imposing wall with a bit of a cave under it. Get It On is the left of the 2 hard routes that tackle this wall.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Currently fixed with draws and lower-off biners.
jay davis
New Hampshire
  5.12c/d
jay davis   New Hampshire
  5.12c/d
The well-chalked lefthand sidepull knob near the start of this route (above and to the left of the first bolt) was flexing quite a bit yesterday. I'd suggest treading very lightly if you choose to use it, especially as a foot; it's not in a spot where you'd want to be surprised by a broken hold.

It might be secure enough to last a while (I'm not great at assessing this sort of stuff), but to the untrained eye it looked pretty iffy. And at any rate, the route goes fine without it, you just need to stay a bit lower while working through the first two bolts. Jul 12, 2014
James Otey
NH
  5.12c/d
James Otey   NH
  5.12c/d
A right drop knee makes the move to the right hand gaston waaay easier and super static. Nov 21, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.12c/d
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.12c/d
PS - A couple bolts may need to be tightened on this route, the first one for sure (even though I started with the second bolt clipped). Nov 21, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.12c/d
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.12c/d
This route deserves more traffic - I never see anyone else on it. It's is as good as Venus imo (though I haven't sent Venus yet I have worked on it a bit). The technical crux (for me) is a funky long deadpoint for the left hand sloping crimp/rail using the sh*tty right hand crimp you clip off, then a hard lock-off and bump to the two right hand gaston holds. Mental crux was apparently just below the anchors where I have fallen twice from pumping out (go figure). When I picture an ideal sport route in my mind, I come up with something not unlike this route. As Lee says "Get it on!".... Nov 21, 2010
ZachDKing
Prescott, AZ
ZachDKing   Prescott, AZ
For one reason or another this route no longer has fixed draws.. Aug 12, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the 3rd bolt kept coming very loose and i hand tightened it a couple times... i tightened it with a wrench the other day (as well as the 2nd bolt) so they should be good for a while so... Get It On! Aug 21, 2008