Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Smith, Spring 2015
Page Views: 2,540 total, 83/month
Shared By: Matt Levine on May 18, 2015 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


84 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a wonderful new line that takes you a good distance from the ground. The position and view from the second pitch is great. I believe this will end up being a very popular route. If you're looking for an easier route to hone your multi-pitch skills this is a very good choice. Just stay safe out there.

Start below the first bolt and make a somewhat thoughtful move to get yourself situated on the route. A stick clip is not a bad idea as a slip here could be a tumble down a hill if you fell wrong. From here the climbing is enjoyable and well protected. Fun slab climbing that felt at times like an easier B-B-Buttress.

The second pitch starts with more fun slab climbing and leads to a really excellent flake. Look to your left and enjoy the view! Finish up a short steep crux on good holds. This pitch was a blast.

Two raps back to the ground.

Location

Tipping Point is located at the far right side of Main Cliff Right. As you approach from the parking lot turn right past Get a Grip and turn the corner and walk up the steps toward Orange Crush just a short ways. You're there.

Protection

Bolted anchors. You will need a good amount of draws for the first pitch as it was fairly long. I will edit this when I get an exact count for the bolts.

60M Rope required. The first pitch is a FULL 30 meters.

Re' Bolts: From Dan Kaye the following was received: Counted the bolts today - I believe its 12 bolts + a 2-bolt anchor for P1, and 7 bolts (the last of which is kinda just a directional) and a 2-bolt anchor for P2. (added by RHall, NH Admin. )
Ming
  5.8
Ming  
  5.8
The second pitch is stellar - a few slab moves to a headwall and a pretty cool pull over the lip of the headwall. Did I spot some blueberry patches at the tree above the 1st pitch anchors? That bumps the climb another star for me during blueberry season :) Jun 15, 2015
S. Neoh
5.9
S. Neoh  
5.9
P1 - 12 draws enroute and two more or two slings for the anchor.
Almost everyone should be able to put a draw into the first glue in. I am 5'5" and I was able to do it comfortably. First pitch felt like 5.7 to me even with the low crux. I really enjoyed the first very well protected pitch. Second pitch has great contrast, a slabby move or two that require balance and finesse while the headwall crux requires some power and oomph. P2 felt challenging and every bit of 5.9 to me.
A great addition to the crag. Thanks for all the bolts and amazing amount of cleaning. I am happy to report that P2 anchor still have Dave's bines as of today.
Be careful rapping P1. I used my 70m and there was not that much rope on the ground when I touched down. Consider tying knots if you use a shorter rope. Jun 7, 2015
Jay LeSage
Sandown, NH
  5.8
Jay LeSage   Sandown, NH
  5.8
I find that it is best to do the second pitch like a regular sport climb. Clip the anchor and lower back to the 1st pitch anchor. Then have the second toprope or lead it themselves... Convenient, Easy and Saves you from having to do a second rappel. May 22, 2015
ward smith
  5.8
ward smith  
  5.8
First pitch is only 5.6 if you pull on the first bolt. Great route either way. May 20, 2015
Jay LeSage
Sandown, NH
  5.8
Jay LeSage   Sandown, NH
  5.8
60M Rope Required. The first pitch is a FULL 30 meters. Great fun Moderate May 19, 2015
jay davis
New Hampshire
  5.8
jay davis   New Hampshire
  5.8
This is a really enjoyable climb. The second pitch is great - it's relatively short but has a fun slab section that brings you to the cruxy steep moves that guard the anchors. May 19, 2015