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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Cilley and Bruce Clough 7/93
Page Views: 1,745 total, 14/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great variation to White Toad (5.7). The climbing is better than that of the usual second pitch and it offers steeper climbing on bolts rather than a slab with scarce pro (we are at Rumney after all, lets enjoy it).

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of White Toad (5.7 trad).

Pitch 2: From the first belay on White Toad head out left and clip your first bolt. The crux is getting established on the climb. Make a few steep powerful 5.8 moves to gain nice stemming and easier moves. After 20 feet or so you make one more tricky move to a stance at which time the tough stuff is over and you clip one more bolt before traversing right to the nice ledge above the first belay. Rap from here or continue up White Toad.

Location

Starts on the ledge at the top of pitch one of White Toad.

Protection

Small rack for pitch one (White Toad) and about 8 draws for Dead Toad.

Photos

bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
I'm always looking at where I'll end up if I screw up and this was not a climb for me to fall off of the crux bc I would have slammed into the ledge below. Sep 26, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
This is a really good short pitch, it would get full stars if the corner you climb was another forty feet long. I would highly recommend this pitch to everyone! Jul 13, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thats what its all about ;) Dec 8, 2009
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
:-) No no, thank you! I'm grateful for all the great beta and maps on MP that have helped me over the past year and many of them are actually things you've posted Lee. I'll try and give back when I can and hopefully help someone else. Dec 8, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks, i fixed it... i fail the class that teaches left from right haha... Dec 7, 2009
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
This description is spot on except you go out to the left from the anchors of White Toad's first pitch. Cool climb. Dec 7, 2009