Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Cilley and Bruce Clough 7/93
Page Views: 3,224 total · 16/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Aug 31, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A great variation to White Toad (5.7). The climbing is better than that of the usual second pitch and it offers steeper climbing on bolts rather than a slab with scarce pro (we are at Rumney after all, lets enjoy it).

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of White Toad (5.7 trad).

Pitch 2: From the first belay on White Toad head out left and clip your first bolt. The crux is getting established on the climb. Make a few steep powerful 5.8 moves to gain nice stemming and easier moves. After 20 feet or so you make one more tricky move to a stance at which time the tough stuff is over and you clip one more bolt before traversing right to the nice ledge above the first belay. Rap from here or continue up White Toad.


Starts on the ledge at the top of pitch one of White Toad.


Small rack for pitch one (White Toad) and about 8 draws for Dead Toad.