Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Lee Hansche 8/29/19|
|Page Views:||377 total · 105/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Aug 29, 2019|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Climb up on the right side of the bolt line passing a small overhang and work up so you are standing on a small ledge just below the bigger overhang. clip the bolt on the roof. Make wild and fun moves out the short roof and on to the true crux, a three move sequence, as you establish yourself above the overhang. From here the difficulty eases off considerably but it stays super fun. Work your way over and around a series of bulges with excellent exposure until you hit the final headwall. Make a few juggy but slightly steep moves past one more bolt and on to the anchor just below the true top of the cliff.
The 4th bolt, right at the crux is strenuous to clip but it is helpful for working the crux. On a redpoint attempt you might prefer to clip it at your waist after doing the crux. Seems like the falls would be safe.
When you lower off you come straight back to the anchor.
You can rappel back to the base of White toad (a little to climbers right) with a 60 m but just barely so tie knots in your rope ends! A 70 m gives you room to spare.