Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Lee Hansche 8/29/19
Page Views: 1,279 total · 23/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Aug 29, 2019
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

11 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Though it isn't sustained in difficulty the wildly exposed and playful roof pull at the crux makes this a worth while pitch. Honestly the fact that it eases off after the crux is a draw for me at times. It's nice to do a challenging route without having to be on edge for 10 minutes straight. If you want to get above the crowds for a bit take a spin on this one.

Climb up on the right side of the bolt line passing a small overhang and work up so you are standing on a small ledge just below the bigger overhang. clip the bolt on the roof. Make wild and fun moves out the short roof and on to the true crux, a three move sequence,  as you establish yourself above the overhang. From here the difficulty eases off considerably but it stays super fun. Work your way over and around a series of bulges with excellent exposure until you hit the final headwall. Make a few juggy but slightly steep moves past one more bolt and on to the anchor just below the true top of the cliff.

The 4th bolt, right at the crux is strenuous to clip but it is helpful for working the crux. On a redpoint attempt you might prefer to clip it at your waist after doing the crux. Seems like the falls would be safe.

Location Suggest change

The route starts from the ledge that is used to link Charity Case to the last pitch of White Toad. They call this pitch Charity Toad. Look for an obvious glue in anchor with quick links about 15 feet before you get to the White Toad Anchor. There is a fairly comfy stance here.

When you lower off you come straight back to the anchor.

You can rappel back to the base of White toad (a little to climbers right) with a 60 m but just barely so tie knots in your rope ends! A 70 m gives you room to spare. 

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts to pigtail anchor. Start from 2 bolt anchor.