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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 11/00
Page Views: 1,860 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

A fun way to gain the routes on the upper ledge and a nice route on its own as well.

Start on a few tricky moves involving a few holds that aren't as clean as some might like. After this you get in to some clean rock with weird but fun moves for 15 feet or so and on to easier rock to the 2 bolt anchor.

From this belay you can climb the 5.11s above, Charity Toad which is an easy traverse right to gain White Toads last pitch, or you can head left to Wendell's Route and a few others.

Location

30 feet or so left of the corner of White Toad look for a cleaned off section of rock (but not too clean as there is dirt and moss on both sides) that opens up to be nice and clean up higher.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
Gold digger is no way harder than 8+, says the Gunks climber Apr 7, 2016
S. Neoh  
Gold Digger is way harder than 5.8+ in my opinion. CC is a one-move 5.9 to me. The rest is fun and good quality. A give-me 5.9 at Rumney? No such thing!
BITD, Night Crawler was considered intro 5.9 but it is sharp and can be painful to climb on.
For me, Left El Diego, Rock du Jour Direct, and Smokestack are standouts at the .9 grade but I am sure I have omitted about other worthy ones. Jul 3, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Ming, for what it's worth the thin crux of Gold Digger definitely feels harder than Charity Case for me as well. I wouldn't scoff at someone calling Charity a 5.8. As for a softer 5.9, I've only been on it once but I remember feeling that Sea Breeze up at the Crow's Nest was a stretch to call it a 5.9. Jul 1, 2015
Ming
  5.8
Ming  
  5.8
Crux moves are way easier than Gold Digger, which is rated at 5.8+, so how could it be 5.9? Sailed right past it the first time no problem. Got back on it again recently and it's fun but pretty casual. If you are a number chaser this could be a great first 5.9. Can anyone think of a softer 5.9 at Rumney? Jul 1, 2015
S. Neoh  
Cool. Got to try that next time. I've only gone straight up and to the left. Nov 15, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
J Meagher: at the top of this one, traverse right past two bolts to an anchor and nice belay ledge. Finish up the 3rd pitch of White Toad (5.8) -- it's a real nice continuation. Nov 15, 2013
J Meagher
  5.9
J Meagher  
  5.9
I think this is super fun for the grade. I love the tricky slab, it has a cool semi-hidden hold and a very useful heel hook. Much better than it looks from the ground Nov 13, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Worthy route in its own right but we used it today to do Charity Toad which is GREAT! This one was a bit wet but we're excited to get back on it when it's completely dry. We found you can make it harder than it really is if you don't find some jugs which seemed hidden. Mar 23, 2013