Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Bowker 1992
Page Views: 868 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Not a classic by a long shot but it contains some really fun moves... the problem with the route is the vegitation, loose rock, and rope drag but what do you want... We get greedy dont we... haha...

Start by mantling on to a shelf and working right until it is possible to pull over the roof... Continue up staying right of the bolts... After clipping the last one traverse left across the line of bolts with your hands on a ledge... Mantel then make one last move around a small tree and on to the quick clips...

Location

The first bolted route left of the three 5.12s at the far right side of the cliff before it bends up the hill... Starts by climbing on to a right leaning ramp/shelf...

Protection

7 bolts to quick clips...

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Jay, worst route at Rumney? Sheesh. I thought the mantle and balancey traverse were interesting, and the overhang was fun. At the top, I think it's simpler to finish just to the right of the last bolt, rather than do the dirty, highly vegetated hand traverse to the left (which is about 5.2 anyway). Jul 21, 2016
OK .... I just led this route today. The bolting with the resulting rope drag was a bummer towards the top, but .... in the Fall the climb is dry, there is no dirt, and it was sustainingly interesting. After the low crux, if you follow the bolts straight up, it is clean and challenging and fun. Don't go right off into the lichen and dirt. Oct 7, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10b
Hey Lee, Jay is bitchin you for giving it one star. He must think I'm a lunatic for giving two stars!!! Jun 26, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha i'm just impressed that you did it jay! Jun 26, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Curious what else is on that list, Jay. Jun 25, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This is in the running for the worst route I've done at Rumney. It's dirty, always wet, bolted weirdly, and generally sketchy all around, though I'm told that some people (i.e., Lee) like this kind of climbing. Jun 25, 2015