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Routes in Main Cliff Right

Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cherry Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Toad S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Freebird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
High Roller S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Magic Helmet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stained Glass Ceiling S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: Jay Golden 6/20/85
Page Views: 856 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The name says it all... It gets a bit heady with long run outs on moderate but slabby (and sometimes dirty) rock... The moves however and the rock quality was nice... Don't get on it unless it is a bit below your limit and you have some route finding skills... Note - This has been mostly run over, cleaned and retro-bolted by Crack Addict except for the very start.

Look for a nice clean left facing orange corner with a perfect thin hand crack that has been bolted. Climb the dirty right arete of the corner then head left in to quartz cracks... Gear placements, hurray!... Find your way up the dirty slab and belay from trees...

To get down traverse right over to Orange Crush then hike down or better yet just finish up Crack Addict to its anchor.

Location

about 100 feet right of Flawless Victory (5.12d) up the hill a bit...

(Note)There is a new 2 pitch sport route "Tipping Point" 5.7 and the bolted corner of Crack Addict between the two

Protection

A few nuts and small cams...

Photos

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Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Interesting. Thanks for the tip. Hopefully more moderates can disperse the crowds a bit. Apr 24, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.4
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.4
updated Apr 26, 2015

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