Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Bowker 1987
Page Views: 8,937 total · 62/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


290 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment). The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump.

You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground. You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks. Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet. a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest. move back to the left and up good holds to the top. Careful foot work will get you through here if the pump is catching up with you. Top out and do a few easy moves to the anchor.

Location

This route is the next one left of Masterpiece (5.10a) finishes to the right of the BIG roof of Noodle (5.12b).

Protection

8 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

Ladd

  5.10d
Ladd    
  5.10d
This really is a great climb, don't be lulled by the grade it is pumpy and not a good warm-up (flash-pump for sure)for Social or any of the other 12s on this wall. Sep 21, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10d
it took me a while but i warm up quite nicely on this one these days... but then again just up the hill folks are warming up on Techno and Whiptide i guess its all relative... either way this is one of the best 5.10ds ive climbed... Sep 21, 2007
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Fun the whole way up. Love this climb... but have been greeted by wasps buzzing in some of the holds just before the anchors the past few times I've climbed this. Jul 7, 2008
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
One of my favorites at Rumney. Still fun after many, many , many repeats. Nov 16, 2008
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
It is unanimous - this is a great route. Full value. One hard clip (last bolt on route?) if you are relatively short like me. Mar 22, 2011
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
I think that the FA was by Tom Bowker. When I did it in the 80's it was rated 10c in the Climbing Magazine new routes section. I did Peer Pressure first, and then this, which I was surprised at because I though that it was definitely harder. Anyway, the best route at the crag IMHO. Oct 16, 2013
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
Fun climb, style is like Pile Driver at Rifle, but easier than Pile Driver.. May 7, 2014
James Elric
rockville
James Elric   rockville
Amazing climb. Don't be afraid to commit and trust your right foot: you will be awarded with a good hold. VERY difficult to clean via rap, probably ideal to have someone who wants to lead follow or just do it again. Sep 8, 2015
B3n Ritchie  
 
When I topped out this climb it started to rain on a sunny day. That coupled with the struggle to top it out after several tries made it a magical experience. I would recommend this climb to anyone breaking into this grade for the sheer value of the climb as a whole. Mar 5, 2016
Ellen Melon
New York
Ellen Melon   New York
5.11bee now, surprise bees at the top of the anchor Sep 3, 2017
Shawn Daugherty
Lexington Park, MD
 
Shawn Daugherty   Lexington Park, MD
 
Second the bee comment, just before you get to the chains. Sep 3, 2017