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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Bowker 1987
Page Views: 8,090 total, 61/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


250 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment). The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump.

You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground. You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks. Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet. a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest. move back to the left and up good holds to the top. Careful foot work will get you through here if the pump is catching up with you. Top out and do a few easy moves to the anchor.

Location

This route is the next one left of Masterpiece (5.10a) finishes to the right of the BIG roof of Noodle (5.12b).

Protection

8 bolts to quick clips.
Shawn Daugherty
Lexington Park, MD
 
Shawn Daugherty   Lexington Park, MD
 
Second the bee comment, just before you get to the chains. Sep 3, 2017
5.11bee now, surprise bees at the top of the anchor Sep 3, 2017
B3n Ritchie  
 
When I topped out this climb it started to rain on a sunny day. That coupled with the struggle to top it out after several tries made it a magical experience. I would recommend this climb to anyone breaking into this grade for the sheer value of the climb as a whole. Mar 5, 2016
James Elric
rockville
James Elric   rockville
Amazing climb. Don't be afraid to commit and trust your right foot: you will be awarded with a good hold. VERY difficult to clean via rap, probably ideal to have someone who wants to lead follow or just do it again. Sep 8, 2015
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
Fun climb, style is like Pile Driver at Rifle, but easier than Pile Driver.. May 7, 2014
I think that the FA was by Tom Bowker. When I did it in the 80's it was rated 10c in the Climbing Magazine new routes section. I did Peer Pressure first, and then this, which I was surprised at because I though that it was definitely harder. Anyway, the best route at the crag IMHO. Oct 16, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
It is unanimous - this is a great route. Full value. One hard clip (last bolt on route?) if you are relatively short like me. Mar 22, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
One of my favorites at Rumney. Still fun after many, many , many repeats. Nov 16, 2008
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Fun the whole way up. Love this climb... but have been greeted by wasps buzzing in some of the holds just before the anchors the past few times I've climbed this. Jul 7, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
it took me a while but i warm up quite nicely on this one these days... but then again just up the hill folks are warming up on Techno and Whiptide i guess its all relative... either way this is one of the best 5.10ds ive climbed... Sep 21, 2007
Ladd

  5.10d
Ladd    
  5.10d
This really is a great climb, don't be lulled by the grade it is pumpy and not a good warm-up (flash-pump for sure)for Social or any of the other 12s on this wall. Sep 21, 2007