Elevation: 1,167 ft
GPS: 43.805, -71.845 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,808 total · 235/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Aug 9, 2013 with improvements by Eli Buzzell
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Note- This area was also known as the NW Passage for a time. Up hill from the Northwest Territories, just left of the Prudential Crag, there is a steep gully with routes on either side. Mostly known for its namesake Very Nice Crack in the past, or as an obscure way to get to the top of the hill, Very Nice Crag has been getting some recent new routing activity. As such, it is getting a heading of its own and a few routes formerly placed within the Northwest Territories or Prudential, like Very Nice Crack and Boar War are now organized here.

This is a nice place to get away from the crowds, with a mixture of grades and styles, with some quality routes hidden here. Also, since it is near the trail heading to Prudential and the higher crags, the long 5.9+, Cozened Stone, makes a good stop for a warm-up for harder routes.

Low on the right side of the gully, which is the left side of the Prudential formation, off a ledge above the lower Prudential wall, are three sport routes; two twelves, The Boar War and Double Ds 12b, which tackles the bulging roof and cool face above, and the above mentioned Cozened Stone.

A little higher up, to the left of the gully, is a short cave like area, which is great for escaping a passing shower or as a place to drop your extra stuff before heading higher. If you follow the stone steps to the right around the cave, above is a cluster of five routes centered around Very Nice Crack, that begin off the ledge, including Dave Quinn's great technical crimpy face route Forty Six and 2 and a couple of short bouldery 5.11s.

If you make the effort to continue up the gully a little more, near the top are two quality lines on the left side, 'Lectra Crack 5.9+ (worth bringing the handful of gear you need) and a new 12a bolted face climb Lateralus.

Note - If you are trying to hike around to above the Summit Crag, and not already up in the gully, rather than taking the passage, you would probably be better taking the trail hooking left under the cave and around right up an easy slab up onto the ridge. It brings you up above Flea Surgeon. From there you are on your own :)

Getting There

Follow the trail leading west through the Blackjack Boulders towards the Northwest Territories crag. Continue heading up like you were going to Prudential, but as you are coming up underneath it, hook a left up the stone steps. To get to the higher portions continue carefully, making you way up the steep gully, or, alternatively, if you are already at the Asylum, walk out to its far left side and drop into an exposed goat path (Careful! You are above the Prudential) that will swing you into it half way up.

Beyond the mouth of the gully is definitely not an area for small children or dogs.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Very Nice Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Cozened Stone
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
'Lectra Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
The Lord's Prayer
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Very Nice Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Lateralus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Pump it Up
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Double D's
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
Forty Six and 2
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cozened Stone
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
'Lectra Crack
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Lord's Prayer
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Very Nice Crack
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Lateralus
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pump it Up
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Double D's
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Forty Six and 2
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Very Nice Crag »

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