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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 646 ft
GPS: 43.801, -71.838 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,197 total · 323/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.

Getting There

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and follow the main trail that parallels the road west out of the small lot. Continue straight past the wooden stairs, crossing a small foot bridge and in a couple minutes you are there.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 5.8 Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 112
The 5.8 Crack by the Road
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Chimney of Doom
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 242
Snake Skin Slab
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
Moe Pup Sensation
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 269
Bolt And Run
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Romancing The Snake
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 317
Romancing the Stone
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 120
Milktoast
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 25
License to Ill
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 97
Arm and Hammer
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 106
Sky Pilot
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 16
Blueballs at Christmas
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 73
Pump Up the Volume
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The 5.8 Crack by the Road
 112
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chimney of Doom
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Snake Skin Slab
 242
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Moe Pup Sensation
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bolt And Run
 269
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Romancing The Snake
 22
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Romancing the Stone
 317
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Milktoast
 120
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
License to Ill
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
Arm and Hammer
 97
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sky Pilot
 106
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Blueballs at Christmas
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Pump Up the Volume
 73
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in 5.8 Crag »

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