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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Description

Looking for steep climbing on big holds? Want a range of five star routes from 5.9 to 12d? Bonsai will serve you well. The left side of the wall is home to Kundalini (12d), Rumney's first 13, later downgraded after the discovery of a critical kneebar. Easier but always challenging at 10d is the peerless classic corner of Peer Pressure, Rumney's first sport route. The ever popular Social Outcast is a picture perfect 5.12a arete, juggy and pumpy with an exciting top out, and a great introduction to the grade if you have more endurance than power. The right side of the cliff offers more moderate climbing of equal quality, such as Masterpiece (10a), Centerpiece (10d) and War and Peace (5.9). The base of Bonsai is rimmed by tall pines, which offer shade in summer and also catch your feet as you lower off.
Note: New route moratorium area Details

Getting There

It is best to take the Shortcut Trail from the small parking lot. Leave the lot, head up the stairs, cross underneath Venus Wall. At the obvious boulder-strewn wash, cut uphill. This will deposit you on the right side of Bonsai.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bonsai

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
In the really dirty massive crack that separates Anti-Social Behavior and Social Obligation, I climbed the side of social obligation today. It TRed it from the Social Obligations anchors. I don't see anything written about it, but being Rumney, I doubt I was the first one on it. It was about a 7 or 8, dirty, but a lot of fun. There is one very dangerous loose flake at top that is just laying on the big block that is stuck between the two sides deep within the crack. I could of given it a easy pull and it would of come off. The danger is it may tumble down onto the approach path to Bonsai, if it traveled that far. I will add a photo of the flake in the Social Obligation area. My left hand is on it.

  • ** UPDATE ***

Ladd took care of the flake. All safe to come and play! Jul 29, 2017
S. Neoh  
A number of youngsters told me today that there is a nearly independent line between Masterpiece and War and Peace. It eventually merges into the War and Peace at the top and that is how they have been top-roping it. Someone has even done some cleaning of the 'route'. I was told it goes at 10d/11a. Does anyone know more about this? I was told that other than the few shared holds with War and Peace at the top, this climb shares no hold with War and Peace or Masterpiece. I might give it a run the next time I am at the crag. Sep 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
there was hardly and damage to the climbing at rumney due to the recent fire... however i did see one thing that changed... there was a trad route that was rarely done and not really worth doing to the left of pretzel logic... it was decribed as "rambling up broken rock" well if it was broken rock before now its really broken... a large tree fell across it and pretty much removed it from the cliff... im glad it didnt crush anything too fun... Jun 11, 2008

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