Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Scott Reitsema
Page Views: 2,992 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

The wickedly steep roof to the left of Centerpiece. Romp up some 5.11ish crimping up an overhanging bulge to a rest ledge before the business. Rest well. Then get moving into the awkward situation that awaits above. Use the prominent flake to make progress up the massive overhang. Would be a great inverted layback if there were feet with which to oppose. Be more creative, unless you're a campusing mutant. A super-awkward diving-board style mantle brings one to the top. Cleaning draws is rather hard.

Location

The climb immediately to the left of Centerpiece.

Protection

+/-7 bolts

Photos

Ladd Raine    
This is an incredibly aesthetic line, but I've always heard that it is awkward and bad, perhaps I'll give it a try someday. Dec 1, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
mike korek said it was awesome...but tricky... Dec 2, 2007
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yes, it is good, with an unusual move or 2 at the top that you just have to commit to and then it is not hard. Well worth doing. Dec 3, 2007
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
Some Noodle history: I first ascended this route with Kit Dover on 8/9/86. We aided it as we weren't using bolts back then. The original start is the right slanting flake/crack just left of present start. The name came from the two micro wires I had threaded together to reach a very blind placement at the top of the flake. Nothing like the sound of a small nut settling into Rumney's soft fine grained schist as you high step into the bottom of your 5 step et. We did the climb in two pitches with Kit leading the 2nd pitch. The lightning and rain that day upped the adventure ante.
On 6/29/91 I returned with Scott Reitsema. The starting two bolts were in. The first the start to Centerpiece, the second, the new direction. Scott led off and fired the first pitch onsight with just the first two bolts! I placed the third on TR as I followed. Scott then led off on the roof, back when the large rocking rock provided a critical gear placement. It was and still is one of the most amazing onsight efforts I've seen. Scott sent it with one hang including pulling the lip!
I wasn't there when he retro bolted the climb but I'm sure it had to be easier not having to place gear. Nov 15, 2008
S. Neoh  
Tom, thanks for filling in the details of the story for me. Scott is one heck of a climber with a very cool head. I believe he trundled the rocking block when he made this into a sport route. People tell me it is still hard, if not harder! :)
Scott has roared back into climbing after a hiatus, I am hoping to cross paths with him one of these days. Aug 26, 2010
stow  
I got on this yesterday and was truly stumped at the top. Is there a knee bar up there? toe hooks? stem? Sep 13, 2011
i saw someone pulling off the big jug before the roof last sunday... it was loose but would never have broke since it was really deep. it should have been glued... now i'm wondering if the route is still climbable. Oct 29, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.12b
There is a major knee bar rest just before you do the traverse right. Put your right foot really high on the right and drop your knee behind the big block. The rest is great but exiting out of it is a bit challenging. Nov 1, 2014
Did you do it after the hold was pulled out? Nov 2, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.12b
No, I sent it two years ago when the hold was still there. I was just answering stow's 2011 question about the kneebar. I hope the route is still climbable. I will go see it next year... Nov 2, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Sent today!!!... Tricky and BURLY... The top out was filthy would be pretty fun and much easier with a cleaning...
I was happy I had a knee pad on my right leg ;) May 4, 2015
Clay Thomas
  5.12b
Clay Thomas  
  5.12b
Still goes and the grade feels about right! There's an excellent opportunity for a chimney rest right before the business. 1 day ago