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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Dawn Shimberg, 1993
Page Views: 4,719 total, 35/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

War and Peace is a steep haul on schist jugs that finishes in/around a thought-provoking corner made by a distinct fin of rock. If you want to be gawhuffed at by aging locals, add the sit-start (maybe V2) in a small cave that involves a heel-hook and a foot cutting traverse move (look for the chalked holds by your knees).

Location

This route neighbors Masterpiece on the steep main wall of Bonsai. War and Peace is one of the first climbs you encounter if you approached from below.

Protection

Bolts. Quick clip anchors.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Now equipped with all glue-in bolts altho one up high on the route seems to be in an inconvenient place for easy clipping. Aug 2, 2015
This climb was one of my highlights of the year. It is just so dramatic and pumpy and cool! Although I have to admit, I don't think it deserves a 9+ rating. I think more along the 9 or 9- or even 8+. Oct 16, 2013
Masterpiece and Centerpiece were both wet up top today but this one stayed dry in between the crucial holds...enough so to the point where it didn't really matter what was wet. Plenty of big dry feet to choose from. Felt harder and better than Masterpiece for me. A great day starter, and tons of unique movement. Jul 18, 2013
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
The final moves into the corner were first climbed by the route Bombs Away. We TR'd W&P but thought it was to wet to bother bolting. Oct 29, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
My experience with this route has been similar to Erik's. Looks wet but climbs dry if you watch where you place your hands and feet. And somewhat a similar experience with Jug Line (but more pumpy) to the right of this route.
Enjoy. Mar 22, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I feel like every time I've climbed this route it has looked soaking, but every key hold has been dry. The clips are safe and the holds are big, It's worth getting on even if it looks wet as there's a good chance it's dry, and if not....it's still a blast Mar 21, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
Sean, it is wet until mid summer. Also after any rain it stays wet for about a week. The drainage for the cliff runs right over this route. It is truly a tragedy. Mar 21, 2011
Sean Godwin
Vancouver, BC
Sean Godwin   Vancouver, BC  
Guidebooks says it's the wettest route at Bonsai - can someone elaborate? Is mid-april too early to expect to climb this? Thanks! Mar 21, 2011
nataliejwong
Toronto, Canada
  5.9
nataliejwong   Toronto, Canada
  5.9
The start is a tricky bouldering move, but once you get it, the rest of the route is good. The last part of the route was a bit tough, not sure if it's the crux. Did a super high hand-foot match to get to the anchors, it might be different for someone who's taller with a longer reach. Aug 30, 2010
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
I found it to be wetter and sketchier, and not necessarily easier, than Masterpiece. Jun 20, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
actually, the aging locals probably did the sit start before you started climbing, LOL, so won't laugh at the idea. Nov 16, 2008
A really good route for the grade. Jugs everywhere...where to grab?? It gets pumpy fast! The last moves are sweet, exposed, aesthetic. Great climb that would be better if it were on any other wall. It's kind of overshadowed by its neighbors (and always a bit wet, it seems). Not much harder when wet. Dec 1, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It is to the right of Masterpiece, Michael... Jun 21, 2007
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
Is it to the right or left of Masterpiece? Jun 21, 2007