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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 4/96
Page Views: 3,684 total, 28/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Just right of the arete of Social Outcast (5.12a/b), climb past the bolts up the steep wall on crimps and a good, sidepull rail (this is a boulder problem that most say is easier for tall folk) mantel on to a really nice rest ledge and rest up for one more boulder problem. Step to the left and clip a bolt then make a few hard moves to a good hold and pull the same last move as Outcast. A cool toss to a good hold and an airy, final mantel. Clip chains to the right.

The moves are really fun. Though not as popular as it's close neighbor, it is worth your time.

Location

The bolt line just right of the obvious arete of Social Outcast (5.12a/b). Follow bolts to ledge, then step right, and do a few moves to the same top as Outcast.

Protection

6 bolts to chains with lower off biners fixed.
Jeebus  
Danger: The last bolt that has a perma-draw on it is quite sketchy. It is a serious spinner and seems to have backed out a quarter inch (or unscrewed itself this much). There are some other spinners on this route, but i feel that this is the only one that might fail. I great candidate for a glue in! P.s. it holds at least body weight, and if it blows you'll be mostly ok.

Cleaning Beta: as far as I can tell you have to top-rope this to clean it. Unless your second really wants to go all the way out the upper roof, then you can clip a bail biner on the second to last bolt, the perma draw, and then the fixed biners at the anchor. The second only has to top rope up to the second to last bolt... Oct 21, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
  5.12a/b
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
  5.12a/b
Tried this today... I think I'd call it a hard 12.a, as the crux sequence is pretty stiff, but short, and the good rests help break up and relax the climb nicely.

We found extended the 1st draw made for easier belaying and catches, and extending the 5th (first clip after ledge/last clip before permadraw) helped with drag and keeping the rope from rubbing the rock at some nasty angles. We also found it helpful to kick the rope around to the left of the first mantle ledge after clipping the fifth bolt. Again, reduces rope drag and keeps rope from rubbing around some sharp-ish edges. Aug 13, 2017
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.12a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.12a
I thought this was better than its neighbor. The dyno to the lip is really fun.

I'm tall and it felt like .12a. I thought the crux was harder than social outcast, but still .12a Jun 17, 2014
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.12a/b
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.12a/b
Cool S. Neoh. What I said didn't have a link with what you said. Just thought I'd post that this is a climb that would be easier for taller climbers.

The climber I was with is also 5'6'' and he had to do an extra super crimpy move. Sep 11, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.12a
S. Neoh  
  5.12a
Perhaps, Dom. By the way, I am 5'6", maybe shorter. Sep 5, 2012
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.12a/b
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.12a/b
By looking at the 'crux' picture, I can tell that the route can feel easier if you're tall. I'm 5'9'' and I had to do an intermediate move to get to where he is on the picture. That intermediate move was definitely the crux. Sep 5, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.12a
S. Neoh  
  5.12a
This route favors strong boulderers. I know of someone who flashed Social Outcast on lead but got totally shut down by this route's V3/V4 lower crux. Strange; this route felt a full letter grade easier to me than its famous neighbor, the Outcast. I did both in the same season years ago. :) Aug 28, 2010