Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: FA by Chris Smith 8/99
Page Views: 451 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 4, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Short but fun.
This cliff has some interesting powerful moves towards the bottom, and a fun finish.
the only bad thing about this climb is it is short.
Unfortunate that this climb is wet often and close to the other climbs at this cliff that are so classic.

Location

Right side of cliff, right of where trail comes up to cliff.

Protection

4 bolts to anchor

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
FA by Chris Smith 8/99 Oct 4, 2007
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11a/b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11a/b
What does this route climb like other then powerful at the bottom and fun at the top? Nov 18, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
matt, i seem to remember the bottom being crimpy and the top being balancy and technical, but its been a while... Nov 18, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11a/b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11a/b
thanks i guess i will just have to get on it and find out for myself Nov 18, 2009
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
the bottom is overhanging and happens to be the crux...depending on your beta it can either be crimpy (straight up) or less crimpy (slightly left). i've always started with a heelhook and used the holds on the left. once you stand up on the lower angled face above things become far easier - it is all balance and a little technique at that point. Nov 18, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11a/b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11a/b
This route is actually very fun but felt soft. That might be because it is bouldery and that's my strong point, anybody else think this is soft?

We did a jump start to the jug up and left of the slopey rail, this seemed like a natural way to start the route. has anyone else done this beta? Apr 14, 2012
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
  5.11b
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
  5.11b
I climbed it like BDalhaus, but one thing is missing. The left side is very sharp! Even though Rumney is known for its sharp schist, tape those tips up and save some skin. The route need more traffic, but like said, if you don't know there are two climbs on the right side of the wall, people will miss them. Not really visible from the main climbs at Bonsai. Jul 30, 2017