Type: Sport
FA: D Quinn
Page Views: 3,226 total · 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 25, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Located to the right of War and Peace (5.9+) this is (as the name points out) a juggy route that is fun but doesn't quite live up to the 4 star 5.10s farther left. No reason to avoid it however as it will give you that good old Bonsai feeling of climbing steep rock on good holds and we all know that classic is just slang for over crowded so as you wait for masterpiece to open up take a run up Jugline.

Climb the line of bolts just right of War and Piece. Climb up the steep wall starting on super jugs then a somewhat tricky section either use worse holds directly or better ones slighty right. The climbing eases up and you will be useing your mind more than your muscles to the quick clips. There are a couple ways to gain the quick clips i found staying right to be the line of least resistance.

Location

Just right of War and Piece...

Protection

8 bolts to anchors

Photos

Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.10a
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.10a
It may also be worth noting that the final few moves to the chains may challenge those with a phobia of crack climbing. Aug 25, 2007