Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Ted Hammond
Page Views: 780 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This one is half boulder problem and half trad climb. The trad part is a big reason it seldom sees any action but it can easily be top roped after leading pretzel logic which uses the same anchor.

Start by stick clipping and pulling through a steep bouldery intro. Clip the piton and figure out the tricky and straight up difficult crux move. Once you have your fingers locked in to the thin crack it's about 5.10 to the top. Really nice crack up top but a bit too short sadly.

Location

Left end of the cliff. 2nd to last route.

Protection

1 bolt 1 pin and a few small pieces

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
that could get you by... I back up the pin with a small nut or cam and then put in a couple after that... Oct 13, 2015
Bobby Mustard
  5.12c
Bobby Mustard  
  5.12c
Sustained big moves on good enough holds lead to an especially unlikely sequence to gain the crack. Heinous tips locks not necessary, nor heinous crimp cranking.
I used a knee bar pad on the inside of my left leg for two critical knee scums while slapping up the arete.
Maybe it's 12b if you are really strong on horrible crimps and tips locks, but if you figure out how to climb the right side of the arete you're going to have a much more enjoyable experience. It's really worth the effort. Oct 6, 2017