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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Ted Hammond
Page Views: 633 total · 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This one is half boulder problem and half trad climb. The trad part is a big reason it seldom sees any action but it can easily be top roped after leading pretzel logic which uses the same anchor.

Start by stick clipping and pulling through a steep bouldery intro. Clip the piton and figure out the tricky and straight up difficult crux move. Once you have your fingers locked in to the thin crack it's about 5.10 to the top. Really nice crack up top but a bit too short sadly.

Location

Left end of the cliff. 2nd to last route.

Protection

1 bolt 1 pin and a few small pieces

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.12c
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.12c
Sustained big moves on good enough holds lead to an especially unlikely sequence to gain the crack. Heinous tips locks not necessary, nor heinous crimp cranking.
I used a knee bar pad on the inside of my left leg for two critical knee scums while slapping up the arete.
Maybe it's 12b if you are really strong on horrible crimps and tips locks, but if you figure out how to climb the right side of the arete you're going to have a much more enjoyable experience. It's really worth the effort. Oct 6, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
that could get you by... I back up the pin with a small nut or cam and then put in a couple after that... Oct 13, 2015