Type: Trad
FA: Mack Johnson 6/88
Page Views: 3,528 total · 17/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on May 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start up Social Outcast (5.12a/b) to the rest ledge on the left passing a few bolts. That section is the power crux. sit at the rest and get recharged for the technical crux while looking up and wondering how you will pull it off. Clip a pin from the ledge with a long sling climb up and place a small cam in the crack in the roof (finger-size). Head up and right under the roof awkwardly to clip another bolt and a few more moves on small crimps and a pocket to the chains.

A little slab technique is helpful on the upper crux. I used a palm on the roof and a few small holds in the corner as well. Very interesting and perplexing route. I like it.

Location Suggest change

Start up Social Outcast (5.12a/b) to the rest ledge. Step left an go up under the steep roof trending right and clip the chains.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts a pin 1 or 2 pieces of gear to chains.
when i did it i used a yellow and a blue TCU one or the other would likely be fine but why not double up when you got em.

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