Type: Trad
FA: Mack Johnson 6/88
Page Views: 2,215 total · 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start up Social Outcast (5.12a/b) to the rest ledge on the left passing a few bolts. That section is the power crux. sit at the rest and get recharged for the technical crux while looking up and wondering how you will pull it off. Clip a pin from the ledge with a long sling climb up and place a small cam in the crack in the roof (finger-size). Head up and right under the roof awkwardly to clip another bolt and a few more moves on small crimps and a pocket to the chains.

A little slab technique is helpful on the upper crux. I used a palm on the roof and a few small holds in the corner as well. Very interesting and perplexing route. I like it.

Location

Start up Social Outcast (5.12a/b) to the rest ledge. Step left an go up under the steep roof trending right and clip the chains.

Protection

4 bolts a pin 1 or 2 pieces of gear to chains.
when i did it i used a yellow and a blue TCU one or the other would likely be fine but why not double up when you got em.

Photos

Ladd    
It seems like that the trick to this climb is trying not to hit the rest ledge if you fall once you enter the top corner/crux(es) May 20, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
Yeah, I thought about that, but if you have good gear, it shouldn't be an issue.... May 20, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
update: i went back and sent it...

I do love the obscure rumney trad routes... The wetness was a key factor on the first attempt but also i just needed to be ready to go for it and not back down... its very insecure and mentally challenging the real key is motivation...

Spoiler alert:
From the ledge i palmed the roof with my left hand while smearing my feet up the steep slab and moving the palm up the roof till i could gain an undercling in the corner... This is an OK hold and i clipped from here however i could have clipped more confidently if i did one more move to a pretty good hold on the roof, a crimpy pinch thing... From here it eases up on the brain but its still not easy... Reach right to a couple of crimps and a pocket, smear those feet higher and reach for the top... Jul 1, 2008