Type: Sport
FA: Paul Wonsavage 8/97
Page Views: 3,931 total · 27/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Description

A short but very interesting and fun climb. A good way to break in to 5.12 climbing. The route involves power and some very balancy and technical moves.

Stick clip the first bolt and bust in to the steep part, big moves on really good holds. Move through this quickly so not to pump yourself out. Some interesting moves lead to a good, sharp, horn hold leading up to a few pinches a possible, knee-bar rest and a final, thin section that I've seen done many ways. Basically do what you can to follow the arete to the good holds at the top.

Location

The farthest left bolted climb on the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

Ladd

  5.12a
Ladd    
  5.12a
This is a great climb for anyone looking to break into 5.12 grades. It lends itself to anyone's style, whether you like big deadpoints, powerful squeezing, pinching, kneebars, or thin crimping. You can use any combination of the above techniques to achieve success on this climb! May 11, 2007
James Otey
  5.12a
James Otey  
  5.12a
The kneebar is bomber if you have a kneepad and aren't super tall Jun 17, 2008
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Here's a video Jakob took of me sending Pretzel Logic for the first time. I've been told of many ways to climb it... but this is what went down for me.

Make sure to switch it to 720p because mountain project removes the &hd=1 portion of my link. :(

youtube.com/watch?v=lgd5lxU…;hd=1 Sep 28, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
The top of the climb has a few ledges that cold collect snow and it tops out in to a groove so if there is any melting going on I don't think it would be dry. All in all I'd say, not a good winter route (or cliff) but on a cold dry day it might just work... Jan 24, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
cool! glad to hear you are getting after it regardless of this relentless winter :) Mar 5, 2015
Adam Kunis
Athens
 
Adam Kunis   Athens
 
Fun but short! Felt very straight forward after climbing Waimea May 11, 2017
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.12a
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.12a
Contender for the weirdest route. I feel like this is a horrible intro to 5.12 climbing, unless trial by fire is your jam. Oct 6, 2017