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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dave Anderson, Tom Bowker 4/9/87 FFA Scott Stevenson 6/88
Page Views: 1,391 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tom Bowker on Nov 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Same start as Peer Pressure but climb the left arching corner and crack.



Allow me to add to this description.
Originally an aid climb, It was later free climbed on gear and given the grade of 5.11d. It has been retro bolted and the grade has been upped to 5.12a in the latest guide book. If I were voting it might be the hardest 5.12a on the hill with only a couple of contenders. Moral of the story, old school dudes with trad racks are always tougher than the rest of us.

The climb is steep with some real trickery and some straight up hard pulling forearm pumping fun. Though it follows a crack system it is not a crack climb. There are two cruxes for me, One is mostly awkward the other is a difficult hold up toward the top of the climb.

Notes:
A little sharp in places.
Not the cleanest route.
Often wet.
Do not disturb plant life, RARE FERN ALERT!
Shares anchor with Kundalini.

Cheers, Lee

Protection

Don't trust the pins. One is only a 2" stubby.
normal rack

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
I noticed the missing hanger as well, wondering what the story is...

lets just say I am intimidated by that route's difficulty for me but never deterred :) I always seem to get on Slice of Life when I'm not feeling 100% too, that might be part of it...
Steep pumpy climbs are always hardest for me but I seem to be able to rise to them if I put the effort in. Sep 29, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
Hey Lee, if Slice of Life is so hard for you, how hard do you think Social Promotion will be? When I sent Slice of Life last year, I noticed there was one hanger missing in Social Promotion. Sep 29, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
If anyone is curious about this challenging and funky line get after it while I've got project draws up on it. I have had to go in to full proj mode on this one #mykryptoniote... Sep 29, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
I also did the shoulder scum thing at the lower crux but didnt find the no hand stance (thanks for the beta)... i had more trouble up higher on a few powerful pulls... i was very tired already that day though... i have to get back on it soon i hope it feels easier... Jul 25, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
FYI, there is a variation to this route that goes at 12d around the 4th bolt.
there is a glue-in and the next bolt before the anchor has no hanger... Jul 24, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
Two years ago I was on this one and I would have suggested 12b/c the way I tried to climb it.
Now that I found a different way, I think 12a is fair.
The crux is at the third bolt and I used to try bridging but it is way too hard for 12a.
With my new beta, I just wedge my right shoulder on the right wall then I get to a big right foot drop knee in a no-hands position.
Way easier... Jul 24, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
hahahahaha you know me so well jay :) Aug 3, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Wow Lee, if you didn't think it was classic, it must be really bad. Aug 3, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
wow! talk about a HARD 12a (felt 12b/c to me by rumney standards even if you might think rumney standards are wimpy haha)! i hang dogged my way up it today and figured all the moves out and completely exhausted my self... yes, its sharp, no, i didnt think it was a classic, yes i will have to go back and send it :) Aug 1, 2011
johny
  5.12c
johny  
  5.12c
Its not that sharp anymore, but do feel that its more in the 12b or 12c range

Beautiful sustained technical climb that deserves a lot more trafic than it's gotten up to now

very impressive route, especially on sight on gear !

thanks for the info Tom. Jul 19, 2010
Wow Tom, thanks for sharing about both the route and your friend!

I always love to hear about how routes like this one were put up. It's an intimidating piece of rock, alright...I always wanted to do all the routes that Scott S. FA'ed (as a marginally doable challenge/bet with an likewise motivated climbing partner). We always put this one off, as super-overhanging 12a R on gear wasn't something we were sure we wanted to try yet.

As it turns out, the route has been fully equipped with glue-ins in the last few years. I tried it with the bolts once this fall and found it to have the sharpest, spiniest holds I've ever touched. It's very gymnastic and has got an awkward, shouldery power crux. A very impressive send for Scott back in the day on gear and the sketchy pins (some are still there, at least).

I am sad to see it bolted, but I suppose some felt it would get more attention as a bolted route. Either way, one of the few legendary trad challenges of Rumney is no longer the same. I doubt it will get much traffic anyway, in light of the crowd and finger-friendly jug hauling nearby.

As the great outstanding trad testpiece I hope to try someday, I hope the crazy overhanging dihedral Bonzai Pipeline at Wiamea never gets bolted...where else to you find a trad route like that??? Yes, I know it never gets climbed, but it gives you something to look up to. Nov 16, 2008
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
The FA was 5.9 A2. Done onsight ground up.There was no bolt on the FA. I Don't know if Scott knew how shallow one of the pins were during the FFA!! Nice send Scott.
In Jan of '98 Dave was caught in an avalanche while skiing with friends in Little Cottonwood Canyon,Utah. He broke both legs and hip and managed to survive the evacuation to a waiting helicopter only to die when the copter crashed, killing Dave and three crew members.
This route, "A Slice Of Life" epitomizes Dave's zest for life and how he touched all that knew him. Nov 15, 2008