Type: Sport
FA: Jay Golden and Bradley White
Page Views: 3,754 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Climb Know Ethics 5.10d clip the anchors with an extendable and continue out the obvious overhanging crack using undercling beta. A hard move will let you get in a good position to pull the bulge to gain sweet fingerlock and a 5.8 traverse to the anchors wayyy over left.

Bring a 60m rope!

Location

Above Know Ethics 5.10d, obvious overhanging crack.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts to anchor. It is good to use lockers on the bolts on the traverse after the roof as the draws seem to occasionally unclip from the bolt after the leader passes, subjecting the second to a potential rope cutting pendelum.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Hard to clean...best have someone second it and clean on the way.... May 16, 2007
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Until it is retroed, avoid the top (third) pitch. It is a death pitch, with lots of loose blocks and rusty pins that break off in your hands. It will be great when it is fixed up. Jun 3, 2008
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
For or those who only know the modern routes, the original first pitch started on the ramp as for Peanut man, diagonaled right through the notch where Underdog now goes and then Polly Purebred, and over to the Know Ethics anchor. You can see old pins left for historical reasons along the way. I think the last pitch will take the original line, just be more sustained, as you will be climbing more overhanging face without a corner to stem off. The big corner to the right of the 3rd pitch, newly revealed by the avalanche, will probably be a separate, bolted line, maybe a new top to The Thang. For now, don't climb on the 3rd pitch unless nobody else is at the crag below. It still needs a bunch of trundling and at least the top anchor replaced.

A note about the second pitch: More than once while seconding, I have had the draw unclip from the bolt out left after I pulled the roof and started traversing( something about the angle at which you approach them) If somehow the second fell when it was unclipped, they would make a big pendulum with the rope sawing across the very sharp roof. It is a good idea for the leader to use lockers on a sling or otherwise back up the draws here.

Cherry Pie deserves it's own heading (maybe after everything is cleaned up up there) I wonder why Ward left it out of the guide this time. Mar 25, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
First free ascent was Ted Hammond and you, right Bradley? Apr 13, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Apparently, something broke just under the lip of the roof of the second pitch, so it may feel a little harder now. Nov 3, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
"The original route is not described. Know Ethics isn't the start. The start is up higher to the left where there is a break in the cliff with plants/trees at the start. A (5.8) traverse is gained in height until at the Know Ethics belay anchors. The second pitch above Know Ethics is true and false, because after the crack climbed we went right and up at 5.6. through some questionable rock and protection. The third very exposed pitch had questionable blocks on it. The blocks are gone now from a rock slide recently.
In 1981, Ted and I switched the first two pitches. I think I did the first and Ted led the second pitch, both of us climbed it mostly on aid. We rappelled off of that little birch tree way up there in the dark. The third pitch could be better now. It's A very deep corner and some kind of finish?
It's dangerous under this cliff until all the leftover rock debris is cleared out of the way. There is a way up there from the side by using a climb called Cherry Pie (5.6). Cherry Pie (Tom Bowker) begins above the shallow corner second pitch start to Wendel's Route's third pitch (old pins)(5.6/5). Cherry pie goes left to an arch. From the arches side (trad rack needed) a climber should be able to avoid and have command over any loose rocks along the traverse in above the 5.10 start to Iron Man's original 3rd pitch. Get ready to make that first ascent?
Getting there by rappel is another less adventurous but the fastest way to reach a destination and protect it on a top rope option. As for my wise guy comments about pinning it on the lead. I was being ridiculous because there's probably nowhere above the roof crack to hammer one in. Retro-bolt it. Ted freed first the (5.11) crux."

Comment by bradley white on March 25th, 2010 7:26 am Jul 20, 2012
Derek Jf
Northeast
Derek Jf   Northeast
Note: found it was 5 bolts? 2 below roof and 3 above on the slab to the anchors left

Also Mark- the crux was a decent reach, holds did look broken just below the crest of the lip (what looked like a second undercling and a side pull?) The left hand undercling was good but felt like it was going to lock your finger in and rip it if you f'd up going for the big throw above the lip. Either way, great moves and well worth it to pull on Nov 2, 2015
Looks like there was some hold breakage in the crux area, but I'd never looked at the route before yesterday. Fun either way!

Is the third pitch the crack directly above the Iron Man/SBS anchor? Looks wet this time of year, but if it is not unsafe than it looks like one of the more stellar routes on main cliff. Any info? Feb 22, 2016
Ian Grant
Cambridge
 
Ian Grant   Cambridge
 
It's possible to dyno through the crux from below the crack straight to the big jug. Super fun and a good way to avoid losing a finger to the scary undercling. Jun 11, 2016