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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson 8/86
Page Views: 728 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

15 feet of fun climbing that is kind of a pain to get to and leads no where since the top fell off, haha.

Access the route by climbing rock du jours 1st pitch but breaking left to an anchor on the big ledge then lead The Thang as a second pitch.
You can also, (as i did) climb Gold Bug, then continue up Gold Member cheating off of draws if you like and continuing up the Thang in one long pitch! you can lower off to the ground with a 70m rope.

Once you are actually on the route it is over too soon! A tough mantle move at the first bolt then 2 bolts (10 ft) of an amazing flake. You could do a hard mantle to a nice huge ledge but there is no anchor so you might just want to call it good and lower off.

Originally a risky trad climb, then it got some bolts up in it.

Location

look for the conspicuous crack/flake directly above Gold member which is above Gold Bug.

Protection

3 bolts. NO ANCHOR
there were two fixed draws to lower off of when I did it (though they were quite sun bleached)

Photos

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S. Neoh  
Thanks Mark. Good to know. I like to do this little adventure next year. I will bring along two steel bines to leave on The Thang. I assume there are leaver draws or just aluminum biners up there now. Nov 22, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Soon, the left branch off of RDJ is about the same grade, maybe slightly harder, so possibly 5.8. There is a little bit of a reachy move to a juggy horizontal to clip the last bolt before moving left to the anchor. The Thang is still 10c since it is the same, just no anchor, a little awkward to start then burly since it is so steep, but on good incuts. Nov 22, 2015
S. Neoh  
"Access the route by climbing rock du jours 1st pitch but breaking left to an anchor on the big ledge"
How hard is this mini pitch? How's the protection? Most of the "Gold" climbs kick my ass :). I like to get a closer look at the carnage from years ago. And maybe even do this mini route what is left of The Thang. Nov 22, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I found one of the former anchors attached to a small car sized rock not very far from the shortcut trail this weekend. Amazingly it hadn't been bent or dinged at all. The rock must have been flying to get down that far, over all the large boulders in the way. At some point in its travels the portion with the second bolt split away and I was unable to find it. I left it there, if anyone wants to see it, so I could come back with my camera, but I will recover the good parts for the new anchor :)) (assuming they really are in good shape of course) It is just uphill a bit from the first really big boulder on your right as you walk down the trail. If you look around you can see a bunch of more fresh big blocks from the fall. Jul 17, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
the top of IronMan is where much of the loose rock needs to be cleaned and the anchors are trash. I remember pulling one of the rotten pins out when I swung over on rappel and grabbed it. Once everything is checked with a big bar, new anchors might be shared by the two routes, or the Thang may finish by undercling traversing the roof at the top towards the right. Jul 10, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Is there potential for cutting left and finishing up the 3rd pitch to Iron Man (on gear) and belaying from Steel Curtain's anchors? Jul 10, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I climbed up directly from Goldmember so i didn't see the bolts down there...
It does look like there could be a cool pitch or finish above the ledge there... neat section of cliff... i wish i paid more attention before so much of it fell down... Jul 9, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Originally The Thang was done as an alternative 3rd pitch to Iron Man, but the cliff has changed a bunch in that area so it is usually done as Lee described now. The mantel onto the sloping ledge was the crux for me, though the lower one before the flake is kind of weird.

There was an anchor, but it came down with the massive rockfall of a few years ago. I hope to get up there and put a new top on this, but am waiting for bolts and an opportune time when I can clean loose rocks without killing anybody.

Where you break left off of Rock du Jour it is protected by 1/2" Rawl bolts instead of glue-ins. Jul 9, 2013