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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1991
Page Views: 6,629 total, 49/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Thin Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff, just left of Peanut Man. The climb can be recognized by a large, complex orange corner leading to an ominous schist roof.

Belay on the ledge. At the second bolt, bouldery moves deposit the climber onto a hanging slab. More technical moves lead to another hanging slab and the last true rest on the route. From here, a long move up and right to a rail may stymie climbers with less reach. The technical moves continue until a big, energy sapping, deadpoint out right allows exit from the corner.

The schist overhang above is classic Rumney: weird, insecure climbing on steep rock. I have been told that a neck/shoulder scum under the roof offers a good rest. I never could find it and felt instead like my body was being pressed lengthways in a vice. There have also been rumors of a knee bar rest here--never could find that one either. Thin Man ends at an anchor on the upper ledge, about ten feet left of Peanut Man's anchors.

Though traditionally graded 5.13a, there seems to be consensus that Thin Man is at least a letter grade harder. Shorter climbers may find it harder still.

Protection

9 Bolts
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13b
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13b
From the ledge, get the crimp undercling with your left hand, right hand out right on a sloper pinch (there is a sweet spot), walk your feet up on obvious rubber coated foot smears located directly below you (delicate), then throw right hand to the slanting rail. I'm 5'7" and this works for me. Aug 7, 2017
I was trying this today and I was wondering what is considered the "correct" way to do the route. At the 4th(?) bolt I ended up traversing WAY out right to the arete and then moving back left to the sloping rail instead of staying in the corner (which felt impossible). Am I missing something, or is going to the arete the way it's usually done? Aug 2, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
yeah, great climb and call it 5.5 for all i care :P

as far as my story, i just thought it should be shared... pretty easy to keep up with that stuff though... i find bail biners, take em down and put em back up to replace the bad ones on other routes, problem solved :) Dec 12, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
You are setting us up for a fixed draw debate, Lee. I'm biting my tongue. Glad you noticed it on time and were ok.
Great route, isn't it? We may have to take a letter grade off for you with your reach though ;) Dec 12, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
Scary story from today:
1st time on the thin man, i was heading up with the 3rd bolt at my feet as i worked over in to the resting stance (not too hard but awkward) and i looked down to see my rope not clipped in (if i had slipped i would have been on the ground) i guess my focus was on the moves not on making sure the gate had closed, the biner i clipped hadnt closed and the rope came back out... i had to down climb reclip it and close the gate manually... really scary since it basically left me soloing on a 5.13 i'd never touched before!

i replaced the biner... i think we should all pitch in and replace these biners that so many of us use... Dec 12, 2011
Scott and I bolted this route. I missed the first ascent due to work. Went back and climbed the route and kicked myself....great route... Jul 21, 2011
James Otey
NH
  5.13b
James Otey   NH
  5.13b
Agreed, Mark.

I would go so far as to say this is the best sport climb I've ever touched. Jul 21, 2010
Mark Richey
  5.13b
Mark Richey  
  5.13b
Outstanding rock quality, awesome moves with the hardest sequence coming at the end! Jul 21, 2010
James Otey
NH
  5.13b
James Otey   NH
  5.13b
To avoid a crooked neck and sore back, look left at the roof and lean against a small bump with your palm. A bit strenuous on the triceps and core, but I think it beats the neck scum. Jul 5, 2009
Joe Terravecchia
  5.13b
Joe Terravecchia  
  5.13b
The neck/head scum at the roof with a left foot back step made a big difference for me. Felt about as hard as Beat Junkie. Oct 28, 2008
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
An even better (and harder) second pitch is to move left and up into As The World Burns, an exposed, pumpy 12b that will get you to the belay anchor on the ledge for a third pitch, The Thing , which is the last pitch of Via Ferrata. There is a pin on the second pitch that shouldn't be clipped, or it will introduce a bunch of rope drag. It was used for bolting the route and needs to be removed.

And, yup Jay, the rest is no hands, though you might end up with a crooked neck for a week if you don't find the sweet spot. Sep 18, 2007
Ladd    
The Extension Pitches Sep 17, 2007