Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1991
Page Views: 10,019 total · 48/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Thin Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff, just left of Peanut Man. The climb can be recognized by a large, complex orange corner leading to an ominous schist roof.

Belay on the ledge. At the second bolt, bouldery moves deposit the climber onto a hanging slab. More technical moves lead to another hanging slab and the last true rest on the route. From here, a long move up and right to a rail may stymie climbers with less reach. The technical moves continue until a big, energy sapping, deadpoint out right allows exit from the corner.

The schist overhang above is classic Rumney: weird, insecure climbing on steep rock. I have been told that a neck/shoulder scum under the roof offers a good rest. I never could find it and felt instead like my body was being pressed lengthways in a vice. There have also been rumors of a knee bar rest here--never could find that one either. Thin Man ends at an anchor on the upper ledge, about ten feet left of Peanut Man's anchors.

Though traditionally graded 5.13a, there seems to be consensus that Thin Man is at least a letter grade harder. Shorter climbers may find it harder still.

Protection Suggest change

9 Bolts