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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Keith Becconsall
Page Views: 2,575 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ladd on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Description

This is another great warm up for this cliff, if 5.10 is your limit consider this a great climb!

For this climb start in the left angling crack, then make a couple of moves up and left until the tree's routes take over the crack, then move right onto the slab and make a couple of moves on crimps to smallish ledge scrambling to the top. Anchors on this one seem oddly placed, I wish the climb ended about 3 feet lower out of the debris.

Don't fret about the crack, there are face holds up there for you darn sport climbers!

Location

Left route on the slab.

Protection

4 bolts to Anchor.

Helmet or a loud yell that you are below the people above you is appropriate.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.5
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.5
Not that great, but served as a good plan-B when the route to the right (Fat Man?) was taken and a bunch of newbie climbers showed and got in line for the only 5.6 climb(s) on the Main Face. The rest of the wall looks like fun! Maybe in a few years when I'm climbing 5.11d lol (NOT!) Aug 22, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
This route is fun I agree the anchors should be where the last bolt is... Jun 24, 2009
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
Thanks Mark Nov 16, 2007
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Keith Becconsall put it up and called it Supersize Me Nov 16, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks much ladd Nov 14, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
I did make those comments in the description...

You start in a crack, make a couple of moves, then make a couple of crimps, pull onto a little ledge, then pull a couple more ledges to the anchors. Nov 13, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
what i meant was more whats the climbing like... crimpy juggy slabby steep?...crux at bottom or top? but what ever you are able to say is cool... Nov 13, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
I don't know the FA info or the name of the route, anyone out there have any idea? Nov 13, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks for adding this route, however could you describe the climb a little more... where its not in the guide this is the only place to get info on it... Nov 12, 2007